Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [258]
Eating
Punalu′u Bakeshop (929-7343; www.bakeshophawaii.com; cnr Hwy 11 & Ka’alaiki Rd; sandwiches $4-6, plate lunches $8; 9am-5pm) Na′alehu’S one bona fide tourist attraction and tour-bus stop is this sweetbread bakery, which supplies the island. The sweetbread comes plain or in brightly colored flavors like guava, liliko′i and taro. Snack on a pastry or malasada, or grab a salad or sandwich to go from the deli (steer clear of the mediocre plate lunches). A small garden area out back allows for picnicking.
Hana Hou (929-9717; Spur Rd; mains $10-16; 8am-3pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat, to 5pm Sun) A community fixture, this friendly, homespun diner offers ‘the best of everything…and plenty of it.’ Indeed, portions are generous and dishes, though not fancy, rarely disappoint. The wide-ranging menu has the usual local grinds and fish plates plus stir-fries, chicken parmesan and other Asian-inspired specials.
Shaka Restaurant (929-7404; www.shakarestaurant.com; lunch $8-13, dinner $11-20; 10am-8:30pm) Na′ahlehu’S other eatery serves mainly fryer and grill fare and has a hardworking bar.
A small but recommended farmers market (Hwy 11; 8am-noon Wed & Sat) is held across from the theater.
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WAI′OHINU
Wai′ohinu has no commercial center. One sign you’ve reached it is when you pass the landmark Mark Twain monkeypod tree, which was planted by the author in 1866 and fell over in a 1957 hurricane. Hardy new trunks have sprung up and replaced it, and behind the tree is a macadamia-nut orchard. It’S along Hwy 11, but there’S no place to park.
Sleeping
Macadamia Meadows B&B (929-8097, 888-929-8118; www.macadamiameadows.com; d incl breakfast $89-129, ste $139; ) Just half a mile south of town, a family of friendly macadamia-nut farmers rents rooms on the ground floor of their contemporary home. Room decor is country cozy – eclectic and relaxed, if not especially memorable. They are spacious and clean, with private entrances, lanai, cable TV, and other amenities. Guests receive a free tour of the surrounding organic orchard, and there’S a pool and tennis court.
Margo’S Corner (929-9614; www.margoscorner.com; Wakea St; cottages incl breakfast $90-130; ) This gay-friendly guesthouse offers two bright, pleasing cottages, plus it accommodates tent campers. The Adobe Suite has a wall of windows, double beds in Star Trek–like berths and a private sauna. The lavendar Rainbow Cottage is smaller, and the garden setting is peaceful. Call for directions.
South Point Banyan Tree House (715-302-8180; www.southpointbth.com; cnr Pinao St & Hwy 11; house $185) Nestled high in the limbs of a huge banyan tree, this fun octagonal vacation rental offers the visually arresting illusion of a jungle escape. Fully equipped and flooded with light, it has a great kitchen, relaxed living room (with TV) and a hot tub on a hidden deck. Honeymoon, anyone?
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SOUTH POINT
South Point is the southernmost point in the USA and a national historic landmark. In Hawaiian, it’S known as Ka Lae, which means simply ‘The Point’. In lava-covered rural Ka′u, only South Point looks like ‘the country’ – with sweeping grassy ranchlands dotted with grazing cattle and horses. It could be mistaken for the Midwest (even down to the shot-up road signs), except that the rolling hills slope toward rugged lava cliffs and a turbulent turquoise ocean. This is apparently where the first Polynesians landed.
To get here, take South Point Rd between the 69- and 70-mile markers. The 10-mile road is mostly one lane, so be polite, edge over to let folks pass and give a shaka (Hawaiian hand greeting sign).
Sights
PAKINI NUI WIND FARM
The winds are bracing here, as evidenced by tree trunks bent almost horizontal. After a few miles of scattered houses, macadamia-nut farms and grassy pastureland, you’ll see the rows of high-tech windmills of this wind farm. Many are defunct leftovers from an older wind farm (Kama′oa), which was replaced in 2007 with 14 new turbines.
About 4 miles south of the wind farm are