Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [261]
Ocean View Pizzaria (929-9677; Ocean View Town Center; pizza $13-15, sandwiches $7-12; 11am-7pm, till 8pm Fri & Sat) The submarine sandwiches are great, the pizza good, and the milkshakes fine indeed. But it’S a place to eat, not linger.
Return to beginning of chapter
ROAD TO THE SEA
The Road to the Sea has a name that calls adventurers, but it’S not the human-free destination it once was, despite being an extremely rugged 4WD-only road. Brave the journey and you may have the beaches to yourself. Or you may find, after all that trouble, that you’re alone because the sea is too rough to swim and the beach too windy to stay. Not that that should stop you; just be warned.
To get here, turn makai at the row of mailboxes (near the ‘Ka Ulu Malu Shady Grove Farm’) between the 79- and 80-mile markers and set your odometer. From here you cross 6 miles over a rudimentary, seemingly never-ending lava road. The first and smaller of the two beaches is at the end of this road; it takes 45 minutes or so, depending on your comfort level driving on rough terrain.
To reach the second beach, drive a half mile back inland. Skip the first left fork that appears (it’S a dead end) and take the second left fork. Look for arrows that are painted on the lava rock. The road heads inland before heading toward the shore again, and the course isn’t always apparent. There are many places where you can lose traction or get lost. Almost a mile from the fork you’ll reach a red pu′u (hill). Park here and walk down to the ocean. If you decide to walk the whole distance, it’S about 1.5 miles. Bring as much water as you can carry; it’S hot and shadeless.
Neither beach is named, but both have exquisite black-and-green sand, similar to Green Sands Beach, backed by looming cliffs. Low tide presents intriguing beach-trekking possibilities.
Return to beginning of chapter
MANUKA STATE WAYSIDE PARK
The facilities at this 13.5-acre state park are forlorn and neglected. You can camp with a permit (Click here), but it’S isolated and there’S no drinking water (only pit toilets). However, it’S worth coming for the easy 2-mile nature walk, which provides a rare (for Ka′u) hike in the woods. A handy trail guide identifies the many native Hawaiian and introduced species you encounter, and the trail passes several ancient Hawaiian sites and ruins. The entrance is off Hwy 11, just north of the 81-mile marker.
Return to beginning of chapter
Maui
* * *
LAHAINA
WEST MAUI
CENTRAL MAUI
SOUTH MAUI
NORTH SHORE & EAST MAUI
UPCOUNTRY
HALEAKALĀ NATIONAL PARK
HISTORY
CLIMATE
NATIONAL, STATE & COUNTY PARKS
ACTIVITIES
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
HISTORY
ORIENTATION
INFORMATION
SIGHTS
ACTIVITIES
WALKING TOUR
LAHAINA FOR CHILDREN
TOURS
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
SLEEPING
EATING
DRINKING
ENTERTAINMENT
SHOPPING
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
LAHAINA TO MA′ALAEA
LAHAINA TO KA′ANAPALI
KA′ANAPALI
HONOKOWAI
KAHANA
NAPILI
KAPALUA & AROUND
KAHEKILI HIGHWAY
KAHULUI
HALEKI′I-PIHANA HEIAU STATE MONUMENT
WAILUKU
′IAO VALLEY ROAD
PU′UNENE
KEALIA POND NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE
MA′ALAEA
KIHEI
WAILEA
MAKENA
BEYOND MAKENA
PA′IA
THE ROAD TO HANA
HANA
BEYOND HANA
PI′ILANI HIGHWAY
HIGHWAY 390: PA′IA TO MAKAWAO
MAKAWAO
HA′IKU
PUKALANI & AROUND
KULA
POLIPOLI SPRING STATE RECREATION AREA
KEOKEA
′ULUPALAKUA RANCH
INFORMATION
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
SIGHTS
ACTIVITIES
SLEEPING
GETTING THERE & AROUND
* * *
You’ll notice it proudly displayed – from rusty bumpers of pickup trucks to glossy brochures: Maui no ka ′oi, meaning ‘Maui is the best.’ That’s a big claim for an island with such pretty siblings. And yet, Maui’s magnificent beaches could well make you giddy. The entire west coast is lined with