Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [276]
Makai Inn ( 662-3200; www.makaiinn.net; 1415 Front St; r $105-180; ) This family-run place is a gem, albeit not a highly polished one. It’s an older condo and some of the furnishings could use a bit more luster, but it’s got a pretty tropical garden and the oceanfront setting sparkles. All units have full kitchens. Price differences reflect the distance from the ocean, but even the cheapest rooms are a mere stone’s throw from the water.
Lahaina Inn ( 661-0577, 800-669-3444; www.lahainainn.com; 127 Lahainaluna Rd; r $150-170, ste $205; ) Forget cookie-cutter resorts – if you want an authentic taste of Lahaina book a room at this boutique hotel. Lahaina Inn was a labor of love by Crazy Shirts founder Rick Ralston, who spent millions painstakingly restoring this century-old place to its original character. The charm of an earlier era shines through in the hardwood floors, hand-stitched Hawaiian quilts and antique furnishings. No TV but you can sit in a rocking chair on the lanai and watch Lahaina unfold in the streets below.
Pioneer Inn ( 661-3636, 800-457-5457; www.pioneerinnmaui.com; 658 Wharf St; r $160-215; ) This historic harborfront hotel packs so much whaling-era personality you almost expect Herman Melville to mosey in. While the common space abounds in character, the rooms are disappointingly bland and lacking water views. But heck, you’re in the hub of Lahaina, so who’s hanging out in a room?
Plantation Inn ( 667-9225, 800-433-6815; www.theplantationinn.com; 174 Lahainaluna Rd; r incl breakfast $179-250, ste $275-300; ) Quiet yet central, this plantation-style inn fuses period elegance with modern amenities. The guest rooms are decked out in frilly Victorian decor with four-poster beds and matching upholstery and wallpaper. French doors open to balustered verandas and in the courtyard Lahaina’s deepest swimming pool invites a dive.
Lahaina Shores ( 661-3339, 800-642-6284; www.lahainashores.com; 475 Front St; studios/1br from $189/290; ) The only oceanfront condo complex in Lahaina that’s run hotel-style with a front desk and full services. Guests are next door to some of Lahaina’s top restaurants, and the beach out the back offers night entertainment and good conditions for beginner surfers. The units are roomy, and even the studios have full kitchen and lanai.
EATING
Whether you’re looking for tasty local grinds or five-toque nouvelle cuisine, it’s all here. Just be aware that so many folks staying in Ka′anapali pour into Lahaina at dinnertime that the traffic jams up, so give yourself extra time and call ahead for reservations.
Budget
The Bakery ( 667-9062; 991 Limahana Pl; snacks $1.50-6; 5:30am-12:30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Lahaina’s finest bakery is in a nondescript industrial park, but don’t let that deter you. On the other side of the rickety screen door you’ll find sinfully sweet pastries, crispy croissants and generously heaped sandwiches made to order.
Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice (819 Front St; shave ice $3.50-4.50; 11am-9:30pm) Cool off your afternoon with a heaping of fluffy shave ice dripping in a rainbow of tropical flavors.
Maui Tacos ( 661-8883; Lahaina Sq, 840 Waine′e St; mains $4-9; 9am-9pm) Here’s proof that Mexican fare can be island-style healthy. The salsas and beans are prepared fresh daily, transfat-free oil replaces lard, and fresh veggies and local fish highlight the menu. Order the Ho′okipa surf burrito to see just how good it gets.
Sunrise Café ( 661-8558; 693-A Front St; mains $6-11; 6am-4:30pm) The dawn patrol loves this cozy mom-and-pop place near the harbor. Breakfasts (served till closing) have pizzazz: try the smoked salmon with eggs, Maui onions and lemon-caper hollandaise, or indulge in the decadent chocolate pancakes. The lunch menu covers the gamut from gourmet sandwiches to roast beef plates.
Aloha Mixed Plate ( 661-3322; 1285 Front St; plates $6-14; 10:30am-10pm) Simply put, the best place on Maui to enjoy a Hawaiian-style meal in a beachside setting. Go local with the Ali′i Plate brimming with all manner of tasty traditional