Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [292]
Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar ( 669-6286; 600 Office Rd; sushi $4-15, mains $17-32; 5-10pm Sun & Mon, 5:30-10pm Tue-Sat) The imaginative menu takes sushi to a whole different level. Feast on luscious creations like the ahi sashimi wrapped in a panko-crusted roll, or the island-style mango and crab sushi. Be sure to sample some of the non-sushi house specials too. A standout is the tempura rock shrimp in garlic aioli, which flawlessly blends Japanese and French flavors. Order before 6pm and all food is discounted 25%.
Pineapple Grill ( 669-9600; Kapalua Bay Golf Course clubhouse, 300 Kapalua Dr; lunch $10-16, dinner mains $28-40; 11am-2pm & 5-10pm) Pineapple Grill has it all, from a sweeping hilltop view to a sleek exhibition kitchen that whips up innovative fusion fare. Island flavor abounds from the Maui coffee–roasted duck breast to the fresh pineapple cake topped with macadamia nut ice cream. Come before 6pm to take advantage of the three-course ($32) sunset dinner specials.
Plantation House Restaurant ( 669-6299; 2000 Plantation Club Dr; breakfast & lunch $8-18, dinner mains $30–40; 8am-3pm & 5:30-9pm) This open-air restaurant above the golf course pairs reliably good food with a grand view clear out to the ocean. The breakfast and lunch menu highlights Hawaiian accents with dishes like seared ahi Benedict, while dinner takes a Mediterranean slant. Think fresh Hawaiian fish, pinot noir glaze and caramelized Maui onions.
KAHEKILI HIGHWAY
If you’re hungry for an adventure, this razor-thin road traversing the rugged northern tip of the island will sate any appetite. Cliff-side views, hidden pools and ridgeline trails – the terrain’s so ravishingly rural that it’s hard to imagine trendy west Maui could hold such untouched country. The key to its preservation is the Kahekili Hwy (highway – ha!), which narrows to the width of a driveway, keeping construction trucks and tourist buses at bay.
Not for the faint of heart, sections slow to just 5mph as the road wraps around hairpin curves. Indeed, a two-mile stretch around the village of Kahakuloa is a mere one lane with cliffs on one side and a sheer drop on the other – if you hit oncoming traffic here you may be doing much of your traveling in reverse! But heck, if you can handle that, this largely overlooked route offers all sorts of thrills, from horseback riding to mighty blowholes.
Don’t be fooled by car rental maps that show the road as a dotted line – it’s paved and open to the public the entire way. There are no services, so gas up before heading off, and give yourself at least two hours’ driving time, not counting stops.
Waiehu & Waihe′e
Navigating from the eastern end of the highway, you start just north of Wailuku where Waiehu Beach Rd turns into Kahekili Hwy. From here, it runs through the sleepy towns of Waiehu and Waihe′e where the county-run Waiehu Municipal Golf Course ( 243-7400; 200 Halewaiu Rd; green fees $50, optional cart $19), near the shore, is an affordable and easily walkable course.
WAIHE′E RIDGE TRAIL
Further west, this lightly trodden trail slices along a ridge top deep into the West Maui Mountains, rewarding hikers with breathtaking views along the way. The well-defined trail is a five-mile roundtrip and takes about three hours. It crosses forest reserve land, and though it’s a bit steep, it’s a fairly steady climb and not overly strenuous. Pack a lunch, as there’s a primo picnic spot waiting at the end.
Starting at an elevation of 1000ft, the trail climbs a ridge, passing from pasture to cool forest. Guava trees and groves of rainbow eucalyptus are prominent along the way, and if you look closely you can usually find thimbleberries. From the 0.75-mile post, panoramic views open up with a scene that sweeps clear down to the ocean along the Waihe′e Gorge and deep into pleated valleys. As you continue, you’ll enter ohia forest with native birds and get distant views