Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [298]
The site is about 2 miles northeast of central Wailuku. From Waiehu Beach Rd (Hwy 340), turn inland onto Kuhio Pl, then take the first left onto Hea Pl and drive up through the gates.
WAILUKU
pop 12,300
Unabashedly local, Wailuku is an enigma. As an ancient religious and political center, it boasts more sights on the National Register of Historic Places than any other town on Maui but sees the fewest tourists. As the county capital, its central area wears a modern facade of midrise office buildings, while its age-old backstreets hold an earthy mishmash of curio shops, galleries and mom-and-pop stores that just beg for browsing. If you are here at lunchtime you’re in luck. Thanks to a combination of low rent and hungry government employees, Wailuku dishes up tasty eats at prices that shame Maui’s more touristed towns.
Information
The county and state office buildings are adjacent on S High St, near its intersection with Main St.
First Hawaiian Bank ( 877-2377; 27 N Market St)
Maui Memorial Medical Center (Map; 244-9056; 221 Mahalani St; 24hr) The island’s main hospital is in the eastern suburbs of Wailuku.
Maui Visitors Bureau (MVB; 244-3530, 800-525-6284; www.visitmaui.com; 1727 Wili Pa Loop; 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) Essentially an administrative office – you’ll find better information at the airport booth (Click here).
Post office ( 244-1653; 250 Imi Kala St)
Dangers & Annoyances
One caution: the town can get rough at night. The public parking lot on W Main St is an after-dark hangout that’s rife with drug dealing and fights and gets more police calls than any other spot on Maui.
Sights
BAILEY HOUSE MUSEUM
This evocative museum ( 244-3326; 2375 W Main St; adult/child 7-12 $5/1; 10am-4pm Mon-Sat) occupies the 1833 home of Wailuku’s first Christian missionary, Edward Bailey. The second story, decorated with Bailey’s sparse furnishings, reflects his era.
But it’s the Hawaiian section on the ground floor that holds the real intrigue. Check out the display of spears and shark-tooth daggers (ouch!) used in the bloody battles at nearby ′Iao Valley. There’s also a notable collection of native wood bowls, stone adzes, feather lei and tapa cloth.
Don’t miss the 10ft redwood surfboard that surfing legend Duke Kahanamoku rode and the koa fishing canoe (c 1900), both in an outdoor exhibit near the parking lot.
KA′AHUMANU CHURCH
This handsome 19th-century church (cnr Main & High Sts) is named for Queen Ka′ahumanu, who cast aside the old gods and allowed Christianity to flourish. The clock in the steeple, brought around the Horn by early missionaries, still keeps accurate time. Hymns ring out in Hawaiian at Sunday morning services, but other times it’s a look-from-outside sight, as the church is usually locked.
Festivals & Events
Maui County Fair (www.mauicountyfair.com) Get a feel for Maui’s agricultural roots at this venerable fair held in late September at the War Memorial Complex (Map), with farm exhibits, tasty island grinds and a dazzling orchid display.
E Ho′oulu Aloha (www.mauimuseum.org) Translated as ‘To Grow in Love,’ this family-friendly festival held in November at the Bailey House Museum features hula, ukulele masters, crafts, food and more. You won’t find a friendlier community scene.
Sleeping
Wailuku’s two hostels are in older, termite-gnawed buildings that occasionally get a fresh coat of paint but are otherwise spartan. Because of frequent staffing changes it’s hard to predict what your experience will be like. Best advice: size up the places when you arrive and don’t dish out money for a lengthy stay in advance.
Northshore Hostel ( 986-8095, 866-946-7835; www.northshorehostel.com; 2080 E Vineyard St; dm $25, s/d with shared bathroom $50/65; ) The smaller of the two hostels, it’s a bit spiffier but leaner on the perks. Two considerations – the security is better and overseas travelers will like the free international calls.
Banana Bungalow ( 244-5090, 800-846-7835;