Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [303]
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GREEN POWER
Windy central Maui is a major league player in the field of alternative energy, producing some 20% of Maui’s electricity needs from the windmills above Ma′alaea and a bagasse plant at Pu′unene’s sugar mill. The mill’s power plant is a thorough recycler, burning residue sugarcane fibers, called bagasse, to run the mill and pump excess juice into the island’s electrical grid. But it’s the windmills that hold the greenest future and a planned expansion of the wind farm could soon double the number of turbines at Ma′alaea. Meanwhile, a second commercial wind farm is in the planning stages for development on ′Ulupalakua Ranch property in the Upcountry
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DETOUR: OLD PU′UNENE
You could drive through Pu′unene every day without realizing a slice of a bygone plantation village lies hidden behind the sugar mill. There, a long-forgotten church sits abandoned in a field of waving cane, across from the village’s old schoolhouse. Still, the place isn’t a ghost town. Out the back, just beyond the school, you’ll find an old shack that has served as a used bookstore since 1913. It’s a bit musty and dusty, but still sells books for a mere dime. To get there turn off Mokulele Hwy (Hwy 311) onto Hansen Rd and take the first right onto Old Pu′unene Ave, continuing past the old Pu′unene Meat Market building (c 1926) and the mill. Turn left after half a mile, just past a little bridge. Just before the pavement ends, turn right and drive behind the old school to reach the bookstore, which is open from 9am to 4pm Tuesday to Saturday.
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The Waterfront ( 244-9028; Milowai Condominium, 50 Hauoli St; mains $26-35; 5-10pm) Central Maui’s best seafood restaurant pairs fresh-off-the-boat fish with a breezy harbor view. The variety depends on what’s reeled in each day, but the preparation choice – nine options in all – is yours. Maybe you’re in a blackened Cajun mood. Perhaps island-style with gingered coconut jus. The wine selection is topnotch too.
Getting There & Away
Located at a crossroads, Ma′alaea has good connections to the rest of Maui’s public bus system. Maui Bus ( 871-4838) connects the Harbor Shops at Ma′alaea with Lahaina, Kahului, Kihei and Wailea. Service depends on the route, but buses ($1) operate hourly from around 6am to 8pm.
SOUTH MAUI
If beaches are your thing, south Maui is your place. Whether you’re into lazing on a glistening resort beach or kayaking into untouched bays, sunny south Maui offers up an amazing variety of aquatic adventures. ‘Turtle town’ snorkeling, coastline whale watching and coral garden dives are just a few of the attractions that have made this region such a hit with visitors. South Maui starts off with the 6 mile–long stretch of Kihei – often maligned as being congested and overbuilt, but oh-so family friendly and convenient. The honeymoon and celeb crowd favor Wailea’s tony resort scene, while back-to-nature folks keep going straight to Makena with its untamed scenery.
KIHEI
pop 19,900
Graced with a string of golden-sand beaches and basking in near constant sunshine, it’s easy to see why Kihei has boomed into Maui’s largest tourist destination. Granted, its strip mall development is not Maui’s finest look, but the town boasts everything needed for a seaside vacation. Good restaurant and accommodation options abound and just about everything is a mere sandal shuffle from the beach. And the views from the shoreline, looking across to Kaho′olawe and Lana′i, are as picturesque as they come.
Orientation
The Pi′ilani Hwy (Hwy 31) runs parallel to and bypasses the start-and-stop traffic of S Kihei Rd. Half-a-dozen crossroads connect the two, making it easy to zip in and out of Kihei efficiently.
Information
Bank of Hawaii