Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [314]
In the late 1960s this was the site of an alternative-lifestyle encampment that took on the nickname ‘Hippie Beach.’ The tent city lasted until 1972, when police finally evicted everyone. More than a few of Maui’s now-graying residents can trace their roots on the island to those days.
The main parking area is a mile beyond the Maui Prince Hotel. A second parking area lies 0.25 miles to the south. You can also park alongside the road and walk in; watch out for kiawe thorns in the woods behind the beach. Thefts and broken windshields are unfortunately commonplace; don’t leave anything valuable in your car.
Little Beach
Also known as Pu′u Ola′i Beach, this is south Maui’s au naturel beach. Mind you, nudity is officially illegal, but enforcement is at the political whim of the day. Hidden by a rocky outcrop that juts out from Pu′u Ola′i, the cinder hill that marks the north end of Big Beach, most visitors don’t even know Little Beach is there. But take the short scramble up the rock that links the two beaches and bam, there it is, spread out in front of you. The crowd is mixed, about half gay and half straight. Little Beach fronts a sandy cove that usually has a gentle shorebreak ideal for bodysurfing and bodyboarding. When the surf’s up, you’ll find local surfers here as well. When it’s calm, snorkeling is good along the rocky point to the north.
SECRET COVE
Once a secret and now a favorite for getaway weddings, it’s a toss-up as to whether you’ll have this little pocket cove all to yourself or it’ll be packed to the brim with tuxes and tulle. But this lovely postcard-size beach of golden sand is certainly worth a peek. The cove is 0.25 miles after the southernmost Makena State Park parking lot. The entrance is through an opening in a lava-rock wall just south of house No 6900.
Festivals & Events
The Xterra World Championship (www.xterraplanet.com), held in late October at the Maui Prince Hotel, is a major off-road triathlon that begins with a 1-mile swim, follows with an 6.8-mile trail run and tops off with a grueling 18.6-mile bike ride up the slopes of Haleakalā.
Sleeping & Eating
Maui Prince Hotel ( 874-1111, 800-321-6248; www.mauiprince.com; 5400 Makena Alanui Dr; r from $400; ) Largely a tour group hotel, the Maui Prince looks like a fortress from the outside, but the interior incorporates a fine sense of Japanese aesthetics, with carp ponds and raked-rock gardens. It has a highly regarded Japanese dinner restaurant, Hakone; and an excellent Sunday brunch.
Jawz Big Beach Maui (Makena State Park; snacks $5-9; 11am-4pm) This food truck conveniently parks in the northernmost Big Beach parking lot selling shave ice and real-deal burritos to beachgoers.
Makena Grill (Makena Alanui Dr; snacks $7-10; 11am-4pm) Hours can be irregular but when this roadside smoke grill is open it serves up tasty grinds, like fish tacos and chicken kebabs. Take your goodies across the street to Secret Cove and have a picnic.
BEYOND MAKENA
Makena Rd continues as a narrow paved road for about 3 miles after Makena State Park. The road goes through the ′Ahihi-Kina′u Natural Area Reserve before deadending at La Pérouse Bay.
Sights & Activities
′AHIHI-KINA′U NATURAL AREA RESERVE
Credit this one to Maui’s last lava flow, which spilled down to the sea here in 1790, shaping ′Ahihi Bay and Cape Kina′u along the way. The jagged lava coastline and the pristinewaters fringing it have been designated a reserve to protect its unique marine habitat.
Thanks in part to the prohibition on fishing, snorkeling is incredible. Just about everyone heads to the little roadside cove 0.1 miles south of the first reserve sign – granted it offers good snorkeling, but there’s a better, less-crowded option. Instead, drive 0.2 miles past the cove and look for a large clearing on the right. Park here and follow the coastal footpath south for five minutes to reach a black-pebble beach with fantastic