Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [317]
Spyglass House ( 579-8608, 800-475-6695; www.spyglassmaui.com; 367 Hana Hwy; r $110-180) Smack on the water at the end of a private road, Spyglass House attracts surfers and families who prefer salt spray to resort glitter. It was once a favorite haunt of LSD guru Timothy Leary, and although the psychedelics are history, this seaside retreat still maintains an eccentric edge. Stained glass, porthole windows and a hot tub are just some of the fun here.
Paia Inn ( 579-6000, 800-721-4000; www.paiainn.com; 93 Hana Hwy; r incl breakfast $169-239; ) Take a classic century-old building, soundproof the walls, spruce it up with bamboo floors, travertine bathrooms and original artwork, and you’ve got one classy place to lay your head. This friendly boutique inn, with seven appealing rooms, offers the ultimate Pa′ia immersion. Step out the front and Pa′ia’s restaurants and shops are on the doorstep; step out the back and you’re on a path to the beach.
Eating
If you’re heading to Hana, be sure to pick up your picnic goodies here before moving on.
BUDGET
Mana Foods ( 579-8078; 49 Baldwin Ave; 8:30am-8:30pm) Dreadlocked, Birkenstocked or just needing to stock up – everyone rubs shoulders at Mana, a health food store, bakery and deli wrapped in one. Don’t miss the walnut cinnamon rolls made fresh every morning. Then look for the hot rosemary-grilled chicken and organic salad bar.
Anthony’s Coffee Company ( 579-8340; 90 Hana Hwy; mains $4-11; 6am-2pm) The best cup of joe on this side of the island. Fresh-ground organic coffee and a delish variety of goodies from pastries to lox Benedict. Staff even pack picnics for the drive to Hana. You know everything’s done right – you’ll find Anthony himself on the other side of the counter grinding away.
Ono Gelato ( 579-9201; 115 Hana Hwy; cones $5; 11am-10pm) How cool is this? This little shop dishes up Maui-made organic gelato in island flavors like guava, mango and Kula strawberry. For the ultimate treat, order the liliko′i (passion fruit) quark, combining passion fruit and goat’s cheese – it’s awesome…really.
Fiesta Time ( 579-8269; 149 Hana Hwy; mains $5-13; 11am-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-8pm Sun) Surfers line up at this hole-in-the-wall for real-deal homecooked Mexican food that’s twice as good and half the price as nearby options. Quesadillas, tostadas, hot tamales – muy delicioso!
Café Mambo ( 579-8021; 30 Baldwin Ave; mains $6-18; 8am-9pm) You can’t walk by this upbeat, arty café without being pulled in by the aromatic scents. Choose from fragrant Moroccan stews, mouthwatering crispy duck fajitas and creative vegetarian fare. Mambo also packs box lunches in coolers for the road to Hana (for two people $17).
Fresh Mint ( 579-9144; 115 Baldwin Ave; mains $8-13; 5-9pm) Spotless and tidy, this family-run restaurant serves authentic Vietnamese fare, but is totally vegetarian. Even meateaters will be amazed by the way soy takes on the flavors and texture of the foods it substitutes – just try the ‘soy fish’ simmered in pineapple sauce. For dessert, don’t miss the mango tapioca.
MIDRANGE
Pa′ia Fish Market Restaurant ( 579-8030; 110 Hana Hwy; meals $9-16; 11am-9:30pm) Pick your fish from the day’s catch staring at you from the refrigerated display case. The local favorite is ono fish and chips, but the menu includes plenty of other tempting fish preparations, from charbroiled to Cajun-blackened. Little wonder the tables here are packed like sardines.
Flatbread Company ( 579-8989; 89 Hana Hwy; mains $9-20; 11:30-10pm Mon-Thu, 11:30am-11pm Fri & Sat) Wood-fired pizzas made with organic sauces, nitrate-free pepperoni, Kula onions – you’ll never stop at a chain pizza house again. Lots of fun combinations, from pure vegan to kalua pork with Surfing Goat