Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [319]
Twin Falls
Just after the 2-mile marker on Hwy 360 a wide parking area with a fruit stand marks the start of the trail to Twin Falls. Local kids and tourists flock to the pool beneath the lower falls, about a 10-minute walk in. Twin Falls gets a lot of attention as being the ‘first waterfall on the Road to Hana.’ Truth be told, unless you’re interested in taking a dip in muddy waters, this one’s not worth the time. You’ll find more idyllic options en route to Hana.
Huelo
Huelo Rd, a one-lane road 0.5 miles past the 3-mile marker, leads down to Kaulanapueo Church, which was named for the pueo (owls) that once thrived in the surrounding forest. Built of coral blocks in 1853, it’s typical early Hawaiian missionary style with a tin roof and a green steeple. There are no formal opening hours, but it’s usually unlocked during the day.
Huelo Rd is unmarked, so don’t look for a sign. Look instead for a double row of mailboxes and a green bus shelter on the highway marking the start of the road.
SLEEPING & EATING
Tea House ( 572-5610, 800-215-6130; www.mauiteahouse.com; Hoolawa Rd; 1br cottage $135) Built with walls recycled from a Zen temple, this one-of-a-kind cottage is a real find. The place is so secluded that it’s off the grid, and uses its own solar power to stoke up the lights. Yet it has everything you’ll need, including a kitchen with gas burners and an open-air shower in a redwood gazebo. Meditate at a Tibetan-style stupa with a spectacular ocean view.
Huelo Lookout ( 573-1850; 7600 Hana Hwy; snacks $5; 7:30am-5:30pm) Drinking-coconuts, acai-berry smoothies, even real French crêpes, and it’s all organic from their 12-acre farm…now that’s some fruit stand. Take your goodies down the steps for a grand panorama clear out to the coast.
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HITTING THE ROAD
You’ve probably heard how heavy traffic can be on the Hana Hwy, no parking spaces open at waterfall sights, etc. Well, that’s true for many people, but it doesn’t have to be for you. Most travelers take to the road between 9am and 10am. That makes for a little parade – one you don’t want to be in. The trick is to set out at sunrise and you’ll have the road to yourself, not to mention enough time to enjoy it. The rush-hour crowd, on the other hand, will be spending half their time looking at the clock and the rest staring nose-to-tail at the car in front of them.
Come prepared. Fill up the tank in Pa′ia; the next gas station isn’t until Hana. Bring a picnic lunch; there are lots of achingly scenic places along the way to break it out. Wear a bathing suit under your clothes so you’re ready for impromptu swims.
Once you’re on the road, pull over to let local drivers pass – they’ve got places to get to and are moving at a different pace. Keep in mind that nature is alive here. Take waterfall descriptions with a few grains of salt – whether you see torrents or trickles depends on recent rainfall up in the mountains. And if it really starts to pour, watch out for rockslides and debris on the road.
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Ko′olau Forest Reserve
This is where it starts to get wild! As the highway snakes along the edge of the Ko′olau Forest Reserve, the jungle takes over and one-lane bridges appear around every other bend. Ko′olau means ‘windward,’ and the upper slopes of these mountains squeeze passing clouds of a mighty 200in to 300in of rain annually. No surprise – that makes for awesome waterfalls as the rainwater rushes down the reserve’s abundant gulches and streams.
After the 5-mile marker you’ll pass through the village of Kailua. This little community of tin-roofed houses is the home base for the employees of the East Maui Irrigation (EMI) company. These workers maintain the extensive irrigation system