Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [321]
Ke′anae Arboretum, on the inland side of the road 0.7 miles past the 16-mile marker, follows the Pi′ina′ua Stream past an array of shady trees. Coolest of all are the painted eucalyptus trees and the golden-stemmed bamboo, whose green stripes look like the strokes of a Japanese shodo (calligraphy) artist. The 0.6-mile path, which takes about 30 minutes to walk, passes ginger and other fragrant plants before ending at taro patches.
Just after you pass Ke′anae Arboretum is the road leading down to Ke′anae Peninsula, which deposits you in the village of Ke′anae. In this slice of rural Hawaii, families who have had roots in the land for generations still tend stream-fed taro patches. Marking the heart of the village, just half a mile from the Hana Hwy, is Lanakila ′Ihi′ihi o Iehova Ona Kaua (Ke′anae Congregational Church), built in 1860. This is one church made of lava rocks and coral mortar whose exterior hasn’t been covered over with layers of whitewash. It’s a welcoming place with open doors and a guest book to sign. Pick up some homemade banana bread and head across the street, where there’s a scenic coastline of jagged black rock and hypnotic white-capped waves. The rock islets visible off the coast, Mokumana and Mokuhala, are seabird sanctuaries.
Back up on the Hana Hwy, a local swimming hole known as Ching’s Pond lies just below the bridge 0.9 miles after the 16-mile marker. You won’t see anything driving by, but stop at the pull-off immediately before the bridge and behold: a deep crystal-clear pool and a little waterfall.
For a bird’s-eye view of Ke′anae village and its velvety patchwork of taro fields, stop at Ke′anae Peninsula Lookout, an unmarked pull-off just past the 17-mile marker on the makai side of the road; look for the yellow tsunami speaker. If it’s been raining lately, gaze to the far left to spot cascading waterfalls.
SLEEPING & EATING
YMCA Camp Ke′anae ( 248-8355; www.mauiymca.org; 13375 Hana Hwy; campsite/dm $17/17, cottages $125) When they’re not tied up by groups, the Y’s cabins, on a knoll overlooking the coast, are available to individuals as hostel-style dorms. You’ll need your own sleeping bag, and cooking facilities are limited to simple outdoor grills. Another option is to pitch your tent on the grounds. The Y also has two cottages, each with full facilities, two bedrooms and a lanai with spectacular ocean views. The camp is between the 16- and 17-mile markers.
Ke′anae Landing Fruit Stand (Ke′anae Peninsula; banana bread $4.75; 8:30am-3pm) ‘Da best’ banana bread on Maui is baked fresh every morning, and is so good you’ll find as many locals as tourists pulling up here. You can also get coconut candy, pineapple slices and drinks at this seaside stand down in the village center.
Wailua
After the Ke′anae Peninsula Lookout, you’ll pass a couple of roadside fruit stands. A quarter-mile after the 18-mile marker, the unmarked Wailua Rd leads to the left into the village of Wailua. Truth be told, there’s little to see other than a small church, and the village doesn’t exactly welcome visitors, so you might as well stick to the highway where the real sights are.
Just before the 19-mile marker, Wailua Valley State Wayside lookout comes up on the right, providing a broad view into Ke′anae Valley, which appears to be a hundred shades of green. You can see a couple of waterfalls, and on a clear day you can steal a view of Ko′olau Gap, the break in the rim of Haleakalā Crater. If you climb up the steps to the right, you’ll find a good view of Wailua Peninsula as well.
An even better view of Wailua Peninsula comes up at the large paved pull-off on the ocean side of the road 0.25 miles after the 19-mile marker. There’s no sign but it’s not hard to find; two concrete picnic tables mark the spot. Grab a seat, break out your snack pack and ogle the taro fields and