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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [342]

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Ranger-led walks through Waikamoi Preserve (opposite) are held throughout the year.

Evening stargazing programs are offered between May and September at Hosmer Grove, typically on Friday and Saturday at 7pm. If you’ve got a pair of binoculars, bring them along – no telescopes are provided, but the stars themselves are phenomenal. You can see celestial objects up to the 7th magnitude, free of light interference, making Haleakalā one of the best places on the planet for a sky view. If you want to stargaze on your own, pick up a free star map at either visitor center.

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GINORMOUS WHATEVER YOU CALL IT

Often referred to as the world’s largest dormant volcano, the floor of Haleakalā measures 7.5 miles wide, 2.5 miles long and 3000ft deep – large enough to swallow the island of Manhattan. In its prime, Haleakalā reached a height of 12,000ft before water erosion carved out two large river valleys that eventually eroded into each other to form Haleakalā Crater. Technically, as geologists like to point out, it’s not a true ‘crater,’ but to sightseers that’s all nitpicking. Valley or crater, it’s one phenomenal sight.

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For information about horseback rides into the crater, Click here.

Hiking

To really experience this amazing place strap on a pair of hiking boots and step into the belly of the beast. There’s something for everyone, from short nature walks to hardy multiday treks. Those who hike the crater will discover a completely different angle on Haleakalā’s lunar landscape. Instead of peering down from the rim, you’ll be craning your neck skyward at the walls and towering cinder cones. It’s a world away from anyplace else. The crater is remarkably still. Cinders crunching underfoot are the only sound, except for the occasional bark of a pueo (Hawaiian owl) or honking of a friendly nene. Whatever trail you take, give yourself extra time to absorb the wonder of it all.

To protect Haleakalā’s fragile environment, keep to established trails and don’t be tempted off them, even for well-beaten shortcuts through switchbacks.

Be prepared. Hikers without proper clothing risk hypothermia. The climate changes radically as you cross the crater floor – in the 4 miles between Kapalaoa and Paliku cabins, rainfall varies from an annual average of 12in to 300in! Take warm clothing in layers, sunscreen, rain gear, a first-aid kit and lots of water.

SLIDING SANDS (KEONEHE′EHE′E) TRAIL

Sliding Sands (Keonehe′ehe′e) Trail starts at the south side of the Haleakalā Visitor Center parking lot at 9740ft and descends steeply over loose cinders down to the crater floor. If you take this hike after catching the sunrise, you’ll walk directly into a gentle warmish wind and the rays of the sunshine. The entire trail leads 9.2 miles to the Paliku cabins (Click here) and Paliku campground (Click here), passing the Kapalaoa cabin (Click here) at 5.6 miles after roughly four hours.

The first 6 miles of the trail follow the south wall. There are great views on the way down, but almost no vegetation. About 2 miles down, a steep spur trail leads past silversword plants to Ka Lu′u o ka O′o cinder cone, about 0.5 miles north. Four miles down, after an elevation drop of 2500ft, Sliding Sands Trail intersects with a spur trail that leads north into the cinder desert; that spur connects with the Halemau′u Trail after 1.5 miles.

Continuing on Sliding Sands, as you head across the crater floor for 2 miles to Kapalaoa, verdant ridges rise on your right, giving way to ropy pahoehoe (smooth-flowing lava). From Kapalaoa cabin to Paliku, the descent is gentle and the vegetation gradually increases. Paliku (6380ft) is beneath a sheer cliff at the eastern end of the crater. In contrast to the crater’s barren western end, this area receives heavy rainfall, with ohia forests climbing the slopes.

HALEMAU′U TRAIL

Hiking the Halemau′u Trail down to the Holua campground and back – 7.4 miles return – can make a memorable day hike. Just be sure to start early before the afternoon clouds roll in and visibility vanishes. The first mile of this trail

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