Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [356]
For the best snorkeling, head to the left side of the bay, where there’s an abundance of coral and reef fish. To the left, just beyond the sandy beach, you’ll find a low lava shelf with tide pools worth exploring. Often there will be somebody renting masks and fins on the beach, if not, contact Adventure Lana’i Ecocentre (565-7373; www.adventurelanai.com). Look for the protected shoreline splash pool ideal for children.
Manele Harbor
During the early 20th century, cattle were herded down to Manele Bay for shipment to Honolulu. These days the herds start in Maui, traveling on day trips to Lana’i on the ferry (Click here) or on one of the snorkeling cruises run by Trilogy Lana’i Ocean Sports (888-225-6284; www.visitlanai.com). If you want to do a little land exploration you’ll find the remains of a cattle chute by walking around the point at the end of the parking lot.
But the real thrills here are beneath the surface. Coral is abundant near the cliff sides, where the bottom quickly slopes off to about 40ft. Beyond the bay’s western edge, near Pu’u Pehe rock, is Cathedrals (Map), the island’s most spectacular dive site, with arches and grottoes. Harbor facilities include drinking water, picnic tables, a sporadically open snack bar, rest rooms and showers.
Pu’u Pehe
From Hulopo’e Beach, a path (around 0.75 mile) leads south to the end of Manele Point, which separates Hulopo’e and Manele Bays. The point is actually a volcanic cinder cone that’s sharply eroded on its seaward edge. The lava has rich rust red colors with swirls of gray and black, and its texture is bubbly and brittle – so brittle that huge chunks of the point have broken off and fallen onto the coastal shelf below.
Pu’u Pehe is the name of the cove to the left of the point, as well as the rocky islet just offshore. This islet, also called Sweetheart’s Rock, has a tomblike formation on top that figures into the Hawaiian legend of Pehe, a beautiful maiden who was stashed away in a cave by her lover, lest any other young men on Lana’i set eyes on her. One day when he was up in the mountains, a storm suddenly blew in and powerful waves drowned Pehe. The grief-stricken boy carried Pehe’s body to the top of Pu’u Pehe, where he erected a tomb and laid her to rest. He then jumped to his death in the surging waters.
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LANA’I FOR CHILDREN
The kids will love Hulopo’e Beach (opposite), where there are some cool tide pools filled with colorful little critters that will thrill the little ones; older kids will enjoy the great snorkeling. Other activities for children are centered at the resorts. The Stables at Koele (Click here) has pony rides open to guests and nonguests. Both Four Seasons properties have kids’ activities, including video games, sports on the property, cookies and milk and more.
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Golf
The Jack Nicklaus–branded Challenge at Manele (565-2222; guests/nonguests $210/225; 7am-6:30pm) offers spectacular play along seaside cliffs. The 12th hole challenges golfers to hit across a fairway that is really the ocean’s surf.
SLEEPING
Camping is allowed on the grassy expanse above Hulopo’e Beach. Permits are issued by the island’s owner, the Lanai Company (565-3273; kvelasco@castlecooke.com; 111 Lana’i Ave, Lana’i City; camping permit 3 nights $20, per person per night $6). Call or email to reserve a spot (three-night maximum stay during busy times like summer and weekends). Pick up a permit from the park attendants when you arrive.
Four Seasons Resort Lana’i at Manele Bay (Map; 565-3800, 800-321-4666; 1 Manele Bay Rd; www.fourseasons.com/manelebay.com; r from $445; ) Of the two island resorts on offer, this one screams – well, stage-whispers – ‘Hawaiian vacation!’ Although the decor of the 236 rooms is just slightly overstuffed and frumpy, the views of the azure waters, the surrounds of the vast pool and the Asian-themed soaring public rooms are entrancing. Given a choice we’ll take this resort first as it most says ‘Hawai’i.’
EATING & DRINKING