Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [362]
For Drama Queens
See the world’s tallest sea cliffs from the bottom up on the Pali Coast (see the boxed text, Click here) either by private tour boat or from your own sea kayak. See the same cliffs from the top down – and marvel at the wild landscape or ancient rain forest and wild waterfalls – from the Pelekunu Valley Overlook (Click here).
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Out west, the county’s Papohaku Beach Park (Click here) is a good enough reason to make the trek, plus it fronts one of Hawaii’s longest and best beaches.
Camping
Moloka’i’s most interesting places to camp, in terms of setting and setup, is the county’s Papohaku Beach Park (Click here) on the untrammeled West End. The next best would be the small church-owned Waialua Pavilion & Campground (Click here) in lush East Moloka’i. Camping at the county’s One Ali’i Beach Park (Click here) is not recommended.
County permits (adult/child Monday to Thursday $5/2, Friday to Sunday $8/5) are issued by the Department of Parks & Recreation (Map; 553-3204; www.co.maui.hi.us; Mitchell Pauole Center, Ainoa St, Kaunakakai; 8am-1pm & 2:30-4pm Mon-Fri), either online or in person. Permits are limited to three consecutive days in one park, with a yearly maximum of 15 days.
You can enjoy the views from Pala’au State Park (Click here) and be ready for an early start on a visit to Kalaupapa from a peaceful camping area near the trailhead. For a true wilderness experience, consider the remote camping at Waikolu Lookout (Click here). State permits ($5 per campsite per night, five-day maximum) are obtained from the Division of State Parks (587-0300; www.hawaiistateparks.org). Mail-in forms are available on their website. Alternatively, you can go through the district office on Maui (Click here); note that permits cannot be obtained on Moloka’i.
None of these campgrounds listed are near sources of food or drink. If you forget a piece of camping equipment, Moloka’i Fish & Dive (right) stocks plenty. For full details on Moloka’i accommodations, see the boxed text, Click here.
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ACTIVITIES
Moloka’i has wild ocean waters, rough trails, remote rain forests and the most dramatic oceanside cliffs in Hawaii. It’s a perfect destination for adventure – just don’t expect to be spoon-fed.
There are two main operators and outfitters who pretty much handle every activity on the island and often work together:
Moloka’i Fish & Dive (Map 553-5926, 336-1088; www.molokaifishanddive.com; Ala Malama Ave, Kaunakakai; 8am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) The largest of the two operators has an intriguing shop.
Moloka’i Outdoors (Map; 553-4477, 877-553-4477; www.molokai-outdoors.com; Hotel Moloka’i, Kamehameha V Hwy, Kaunakakai; 8:30am-4pm)
For the following activities, unless stated otherwise, either Moloka’i Fish & Dive or Moloka’i Outdoors can set you up.
At Sea
During the summer, you’ll find waters are calm on the north and west shores, and made rough by the persistent trade winds on the south shore outside of the Pala’au barrier reef. Plan on getting out early, before the winds pick up. Winter storms make waters rough all around the island (outside of the reef), but, even so, the calm days between winter storms can be the best times to get out on the water.
Fishing
The sportfishing is excellent in Moloka’i waters, especially around the Penguin Banks of the southwestern tip. Bait casting is good on the southern and western shores. Boats dock and leave from the Kaunakakai Wharf; Click here for a list of charter boats. Rates run about $25 per person per hour with various time and passenger minimums (eg six-person, four-hour minimum would be $600). Close to shore expect to find large fish including