Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [37]
Mala Wailea (Click here)
Ka′uiki (Click here)
I’O (Click here)
O′ahu
Town (Click here)
Downtown (Click here)
Pineapple Room (Click here)
Roy’s (p159, at Waikiki Beach and across the islands) remains a standout for impeccable preparations across the islands. But can a chain that overnight-delivers fresh Hawaii fish to worldwide outposts really fit the locavore model?
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ISLAND BOUNTY
Locally grown basics such as cabbage, tomatoes, bell peppers, bananas and avocados are found across the islands. But each island has its star crops (and, often, brand names that you might notice on menus). There are too many notables to name, but here’s a starting point:
Hawai′i – mushrooms from Hamakua Mushrooms; tomatoes and salad greens from Hamakua Springs Country Farms; vanilla from Hawaiian Vanilla Company; Ka′u oranges; kampachi (yellowtail) from Kona Blue Water Farms; lobster from Kona Cold Lobster; abalone from Big Island Abalone; Kona or Ka′u coffee; yellow-flesh Solo papayas
Kaua′i – goat cheese from Kaua′i Kunana Dairy; beef from Medeiros Farm; organic ginger from Kolo Kai Organic Farm; Kilauea honey; Hanalei-grown taro; red-flesh Sunrise papayas
Maui – beef from Maui Cattle Co; lavender from Ali′i Kula Lavender; goat cheese from Surfing Goat Dairy; elk from ′Ulupalakua Ranch; strawberries from Kula Country Farms; sugar from Maui Brand Hawaiian Raw Sugar
Moloka′i – coffee from Coffees of Hawai′i; sea salt from Pacifica Hawai′i; macadamia nuts from Purdy’s; Moloka′i Purple–variety sweet potatoes from L&R Farms
O′ahu – salad greens from Nalo Farms; beef from North Shore Cattle Co; tomatoes from North Shore Farms; Ewa-grown melons; North Shore–grown supersweet corn
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HAWAII’S LOCAVORE MOVEMENT
A hot issue across the islands is food security. A whopping 80% to 90% of Hawaii’s food is imported, despite its natural biodiversity. Now, a growing contingent of small-scale farmers is trying to shift the agriculture industry away from the model of corporate-scale, industrialized monocropping (eg sugar and pineapple) enabled by chemical fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides. Instead, family farms are growing diverse crops for the table or for sale locally.
This push for sustainable agriculture coincided with best-selling books like The Omnivore’s Dilemma and The 100-Mile Diet, making it a fortuitous time for ‘locally grown’ to catch the public’s fancy. On the Big Island, especially, diversified agriculture is booming, not just with its signature coffee and macadamia nuts, but a range of edibles from mushrooms to shellfish. With the only two cattle dairies left statewide, the Big Island produces 95% of its residents’ milk consumption, while the other islands rely on 100% imported milk (which is always repasteurized, a process that adds eight days before the product reaches the consumer!).
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Learn more about local agriculture, farm tours and farmers markets at www.hiagtourism.org. It’s not exhaustive but it’s a good start.
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Even with a local bounty, building a solid consumer market isn’t easy. Safeway and island-based supermarket chains typically prefer the blemish-free consistency of Sunkist oranges and California grapes –an exception is the Big Island’s KTA Super Stores (Click here), which carries a commendable 90% locally grown produce. At the same time, locals tend to buy whatever’s cheapest. Further, while tourists are eager to buy star fruit and avocados, locals often balk at paying for fruit they see falling off neighborhood trees.
As for imported staples such as wheat and other grains, some ask if we need them. Why not substitute native starches such as breadfruit, taro and sweet potato? Well, rice is king among local staples and can single-handedly keep Matson and Young Brothers (shipping barges) in business!
Bottom line: the only way that small-scale farmers can thrive is to sell their products. Buy local!
Local Food
Cheap, filling and tasty, local food is the stuff of cravings and comfort. Such food might be dubbed ‘street food’ but street vendors