Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [372]
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FISH IN A POND
Starting just east of Kaunakakai and continuing past the 20-mile marker are dozens of loko i’a (fishponds), huge circular walls of rocks that are part of one of the world’s most advanced forms of aquaculture. Monumental in size, backbreaking in creation, the fishponds operate on a simple principal: little fish swim in, big fish can’t swim out. Some are obscured and overgrown by mangroves but others have been restored by locals anxious to preserve this link to their past. The Kahinapohaku fishpond, about half a mile past the 19-mile marker, is in excellent shape and is tended to by konohiki (caretakers) who live simply on site. Another good one is at the 13-mile marker in ’Ualapu’e.
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KALUA’AHA
The barely perceptible village of Kalua’aha is less than 2 miles past Wavecrest. The ruins of Kalua’aha Church, Moloka’i’s first Christian church, are a bit off the road and inland but just visible, if you keep an eye peeled. It was built in 1844 by Moloka’i’s first missionary, Harvey R Hitchcock. Our Lady of Seven Sorrows (service 7:15am Sun) is a church a quarter of a mile past the Kalua’aha Church site. The present Our Lady of Sorrows is a reconstruction from 1966 of the original wood-frame building, constructed in 1874 by the missionary Father Damien.
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’ILI’ILI’OPAE HEIAU
Where’s Unesco when you need it? ’Ili’ili’opae is Moloka’i’s biggest heiau, and is thought to be the second largest in Hawaii. It also might possibly be the oldest religious site in the state. Yet this remarkable treasure is barely known, even by many locals.
The dimensions are astonishing: over 300ft long and 100ft wide, and about 22ft high on the eastern side, and 11ft high at the other end. The main platform is strikingly level. Archaeologists believe the original heiau may have been three times its current size, reaching out beyond Mapulehu Stream. Like the fishponds, this heiau represents an extraordinary amount of labor by people with no real tools at their disposal.
Once a luakini (temple of human sacrifice), ’Ili’ili’opae is today silent except for the singing of birds. African tulip and mango trees line the trail to the site, a peaceful place filled with mana (spiritual essence), whose stones still seem to emanate vibrations of a mystical past. Remember: it’s disrespectful to walk across the top of the heiau.
Visiting this heiau is a little tricky, since it’s on private property. Park on the highway (to avoid upsetting the neighbors) and walk up the short dirt path. Pass the roundabout around a patch of trees, and continue up the rocky road. Soon after, you’ll see a trail on the left-hand side, opposite a house, that will take you across a streambed. Head to the steps on the northern side of the heiau.
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LIVE LIKE A LOCAL
You’ve probably noticed that most of what there is to do on Moloka’i happens outdoors and often involves group functions. So how do you hook up with the local folks, that is, talk some story and get a feel for local culture? Start with Molokai Dispatch, which lists events of all kinds, including school benefits, church events or 4-H livestock competitions. Then go buy some crafts, get a taste of some home cooking, or cheer on your favorite heifer. Other good sources in Kaunakakai are the bulletin boards outside Friendly Market (Click here), Outpost Natural Foods (Click here) and the library (Click here). There are inevitably community groups selling goods to raise money along Ala Malama Ave; have a chat with these folk. Ball games at softball and baseball