Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [377]
Waikolu Lookout
At 3600ft, Waikolu Lookout provides a breathtaking view into the steep Waikolu Valley and out to the ocean beyond. After rains, the white strands of numerous waterfalls accent the sheer cliffs and fill the valley with a dull roar. Morning is best for clear views, but if it’s foggy, have a snack at the picnic bench and see if it clears.
The wide, grassy Waikolu Lookout campground is directly opposite the lookout. If you can bear the mist and cold winds that sometimes blow up from the canyon, this could make a base camp for hikes into the preserve. The site has a picnic pavilion. Bring water. No open fires are allowed and state camping permits are required (Click here).
Kamakou Preserve
Since 1982, the Nature Conservancy has managed the Kamakou Preserve, which includes cloud forest, bogs, shrub land and habitat for many endangered plants and animals. Its 2774 acres of native ecosystems start immediately beyond the Waikolu Lookout.
Much of the preserve is forested with ’ohi’a lehua, a native tree with fluffy red blossoms, whose nectar is favored by native birds. It is home to the ’apapane (bright red Hawaiian honeycreeper), ’amakihi (yellow-green honeyeater) and pueo (Hawaiian owl). Other treasures include tree ferns, native orchids and silvery lilies.
Hiking back through three million years of evolution on the Pepe’opae Trail is Kamakou’s star attraction. This undisturbed Hawaiian montane bog is a miniature primeval forest of stunted trees, dwarfed plants and lichens that feels like it’s the dawn of time. This bog receives about 180in of rain each year, making it one of the wettest regions in the Hawaiian Islands. The trail ends at the Pelekunu Valley Overlook, where you’ll enjoy a valley view of fantastic depth, and, if it’s not foggy, the ocean beyond.
Almost the entire mile-long trail is along an extremely narrow boardwalk that feels at times like tightrope walking. It is covered with a coarse metal grating to prevent hikers from slipping, but you should still wear shoes with a good grip.
There are two ways to reach the Pepe’opae Trail from Waikolu Lookout. You can walk through the forest for an hour or drive about 2.5 miles along the main jeep road to the signposted trailhead. When in doubt, stay to the left, ignoring side roads.
Visitors should sign in and out at the preserve’s entrance. Look for entries from others on everything from car breakdowns to trail conditions and bird sightings. Posted notices announce if any part of the preserve is closed. Bring rain gear, as the trails in Kamakou can be wet and muddy.
Tours
Excellent monthly Saturday hikes with the Nature Conservancy (553-5236; www.nature.org/hawaii; Moloka’i Industrial Park, 23 Pueo Pl, Kualapu’u; suggested donation $25) explore the preserve’s history and ecology. Transportation is provided. Hikes have an eight-person maximum and tend to book up several months in advance.
Getting There & Away
Kamakou is protected in its wilderness state in part because the rutted dirt road leading in makes it hell to reach. A 4WD vehicle is obligatory and even then the narrow, rutted track with its sheer edges and tendency to turn into a bog after rains is a challenge. Check conditions with the Nature Conservancy office (553-5236; www.nature.org/hawaii). The 10-mile drive from Hwy 460 to Waikolu Lookout takes about 45 minutes to drive.
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GETTING THE GOAT (AND SAVING THE REEF)
Hunting on Moloka’i is done mostly for good reasons. Non-native feral goats, pigs and deer have run amok in the highlands and are voraciously chewing their way through the foliage. This has led to deforestation and greatly increased the runoff from the frequent rains. These flows of mud slop down to the south