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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [393]

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experts can test themselves at Kealia Beach (Click here) and Hanalei Bay (Click here), near the pavilion.

DIVING

While Kaua′i waters cannot quite compare to the calm, clear waters off the Big Island’s Kona Coast, diving is still excellent. A top shore-diving site is Koloa Landing (Click here), a great easy-entry beginner spot. Others are Po′ipu Beach Park (Click here), Ke′e Beach (Click here), Makua (Tunnels) Beach (Click here) and Ahukini Landing (Map).

Most boat dives explore the waters off Po′ipu, but the the hottest site for experienced divers is Ni′ihau (Click here), which features deep wall dives, lava caves and formations, plentiful marine life and crystal-clear waters. The crossing between Kaua′i and Ni′ihau takes 2½ hours and is doable only in summer.

KAYAKING

With seven rivers, including the only navigable one statewide, river kayaking is the rage here. The Wailua River tour, which includes a dip at a 130ft waterfall, is the classic. Due to the river’s popularity, the county strictly regulates its use (eg no tours on Sundays). Most outfitters are located in Wailua (Click here), Hanalei (Click here) and Lihu′e (Click here).

For more solitude in nature, visit Kaua′i’s other rivers, especially the Hanalei River (Click here) and Kalihiwai Stream (Map). A handful of tours (Click here) navigate the Hule′ia River, which passes through the off-limits Hule′ia National Wildlife Refuge.

Officially all sea kayaking off Kaua′i must be done on tour because of rough surf. Beginners can learn in Po′ipu (Click here) and Hanalei (Click here), while the fit and ambitious can challenge themselves on the grueling 17-mile Na Pali journey (Click here), possible only in summer.

SNORKELING

Snorkeling is the most unsnobby of ocean activities: almost anyone can do it. Easy-access shore snorkeling is a great way to start. Sweet spots include Po′ipu Beach Park (Click here), with dense fish populations and frequent turtle spottings, on the South Shore; Salt Pond Beach Park (Click here), with shallow waters, on the Westside; Lydgate Beach Park (Click here), for a protected lagoon perfect for kids, on the Eastside; and Ke′e Beach (Click here) and Makua (Tunnels) Beach (Click here), for the most spectacular setting (both above and below water), on the North Shore.

Your snorkeling options multiply if you go by boat or raft. The scenic Na Pali Coast circuit is the star; tours leave from Port Allen (Click here), Kikiaola Small Boat Harbor (Click here) and Hanalei Bay (Click here), which is recommended for maximum North Shore viewing.

SURFING

Kaua′i’s North Shore might be less famous than O′ahu’s but it’s still a surfing mecca (and home turf of the Irons brothers) – the same can be said of Waikiki and Po′ipu. Actually, Kaua′i’s breaks are crowded (with lots of jostling for a place in the line-up) year-round, especially when the surf is under 6ft. See boxed text, opposite, for insider tips.

SWIMMING

You can find protected swimming lagoons year-round at Lydgate Beach Park (Click here), Salt Pond Beach Park (Click here) and ′Anini Beach Park (Click here). On the North Shore, swimming is feasible only in summer, when waters are calm at Ke′e Beach (Click here) and Hanalei Bay (Click here). In winter, when giant swells pound the North Shore, head to the South Shore, especially Po′ipu Beach Park (Click here).

On Land

CYCLING

With no bike lanes (and sometimes no road shoulders), cycling remains challenging on Kaua′i. But the Eastside coastal path (Click here) will eventually run from Lihu′e to Anahola and make for a sweet recreational ride. Currently, there’s a 4-mile stretch from Kapa′a to Donkey Beach, and 2.5 miles along Lydgate Beach Park.

GOLF

While Kaua′i has only nine courses, the Prince Course (Click here) at the St Regis Princeville Resort consistently ranks number one statewide (as it did in Golf Digest’s 2007–08 Best in State list). Kaua′i Lagoons’ Kiele Course (Click here) made the ninth spot, while Po′ipu Bay Golf Course (Click here) was number 10.

HELICOPTER TOURS

Only from a helicopter can you see Kaua′i’s inaccessible

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