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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [397]

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Motorcycle and moped rentals are popular, despite frequent showers. Kaua′i Harley-Davidson (Map;241-7020, 877-212-9253; www.kauaih-d.com; 3-1866 Kaumuali′i Hwy, Lihu′e; per day $167-188) does brisk business renting its 26-bike fleet, despite its going rate of almost $200 per day plus a $1000 security deposit. More affordable are mopeds, available at Kauai Scooter Rental (Map;245-7177; www.kauaimopedrentals.com; 3371 Wilcox Rd; 8am-5pm) for $59 per day (from 8am to 5pm) and $75 for 24 hours. Staffers train new moped users until they’re confident enough to hit the road – and there’s no obligation if you change your mind. See the Transportation chapter for more on getting around by car (Click here) or motorbikes (Click here).

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KAUA‘I ITINERARIES

In Two Days

Start day one immersed in glorious greenery at the National Tropical Botanical Garden (Click here), then stop at the Koloa Fish Market (Click here) for poke (cubed raw fish mixed with sesame oil, salt, chili pepper or other condiments) and plate lunches before hitting Po′ipu Beach Park (Click here) for a lazy afternoon. Don’t miss the South Shore sunset. On day two, head up to Waimea Canyon (Click here), hike at Koke′e State Park (Click here) and browse local art at Hanapepe’s galleries (Click here).

In Four Days

After following the two-day itinerary, rise early and take the road trip of your life along the epic North Shore. At the ‘End of the Road,’ test your surefootedness on the first leg of the Kalalau Trail (Click here). In the afternoon, meet native flora at Limahuli Garden (Click here) and then soak up that surf-town vibe in Hanalei (Click here). On day four, splash yourself awake with a surf lesson (Click here) at Hanalei Bay. End your trip with a bike ride along the Eastside coastal path (Click here), followed by shopping and eating in lively Kapa′a (Click here).

For Hikers

If hiking’s your thing, Kaua′i’s diverse trails and terrain can intrigue you for a lifetime. For starters, head up to the island’s hiking hotbed, Koke′e State Park (Click here), where the muddy bog of the Alaka′i Swamp Trail (Click here) and the unnervingly steep Nu′alolo loop hike (Click here) are utterly unique. Walk along the rugged, undeveloped Maha′ulepu Coast (Click here) and see ancient sandstone cliffs and pristine beaches. Trek up Nounou Mountain (Click here) for sweeping views of the Eastside, plus a butt-kicking workout. Stroll the endless carpet of sand along Kekaha Beach Park (Click here), which you might have all to yourself. The island’s signature hike navigates the sheer Na Pali cliffs along the Kalalau Trail (Click here).

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Taxi

Locals rarely use taxicabs so you’ll find only a dozen companies. The standard flag-down fee is $3, plus 30¢ per ⅛ additional mile. Cabs line up at the airport during normal business hours, but they don’t run all night or cruise for passengers; outside the airport, you’ll need to call ahead.

Taxi companies include Akiko’s Taxi (822-7588), in the Lihu′e-Kapa′a area; North Shore Cab (826-4118; www.northshorecab.com), based in Princeville; and Southshore Cab (742-1525), in Po′ipu.


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LIHU′E

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Your first impression of Lihu′e, the island capital, will likely be lukewarm. That’s because this is a drive-in, drive-out town, with no distinct center. Here, the parts are greater than the sum – and you’ll find gems scattered throughout. First, there’s a plethora of economical eateries and shops, including longtime family-run businesses hidden in nondescript buildings. Second, the town beach is a beauty, ideal for almost all water sports. Third, there’s a down-to-earth quality to this workaday town that’s missing in the resort towns north and south. By necessity, you’ll pass through Lihu′e – not a knockout but worth getting to know.


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HISTORY

Lihu′e arose as a plantation town back when sugar was king and the massive Lihu′e Plantation sugar mill was Kaua′i’s largest. The plantation relied solely on rainwater

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