Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [406]
Fish Express (Map; 245-9918; 3343 Kuhio Hwy; lunch $6-7.50; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun, lunch served to 3pm daily) Fish lovers, this is a no-brainer. One day, order chilled deli items, from fresh ahi poke to green seaweed salad, by the pound. The next day, try a healthful plate lunch of blackened ahi with guava-basil sauce, plus rice and salad ($8.50) or a gourmet bentō (Japanese boxed meal). You might end up here every day.
Pho Kauai (Map; 245-9858; Rice Shopping Center, 4303 Rice St; bowls under $8; 10am-9pm Mon-Sat) Hidden in a strip mall, this no-frills eatery serves steaming bowls of well-made pho (Vietnamese noodle soup). Choose meat or veg toppings, such as curry chicken, grilled shrimp, snow peas or eggplant. No credit cards.
Don’t miss a taste (or two, or a dozen) of fresh Portuguese malasada (doughnut without a hole). Sugar-coated but not too sweet, the best of these palm-sized beauties combine lightness with satisfying heft. Try the island’s two best malasada makers:
Kaua′i Malasadas (Map; Kukui Grove Shopping Center, 3-2600 Kaumuali′i Hwy; 3 pieces $1.25; from 9am Mon-Sat) This charming one-woman stand in front of Kmart is a must. She sells sugar or cinnamon-sugar varieties, kept toasty under a heat lamp and available from morning until pau (finished), ie sold out.
Kaua′i Bakery & Cinnamons (Map; 246-4765; www.kauaibakery.com; Kukui Grove Shopping Center, 3-2600 Kaumuali′i Hwy; pastries 49¢-$1.75, cakes & pies $8-16; 7am-7pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to 9pm Fri, to 6pm Sun) At this family-run, full-service bakery in the mall, savor cream- or chocolate-filled malasadas, plus old-fashioned cinnamon rolls, apple turnovers, bread pudding and much more.
Midrange & Top End
Hanama′ulu Restaurant Tea House & Sushi Bar (Map; 245-2511, 245-3225; 3-4291 Kuhio Hwy; mains $7-10, special platters $17-20; 11:30am-9:30pm Tue-Sun) This fixture on the outskirts of Lihu′e stands out mainly for its historic teahouse setting. The food is good, but not great, and the menu suspiciously includes Chinese dishes, but that’s the island way. They’re known for crispy fried dishes, from Chinese ginger chicken to Japanese tempura and tonkatsu (breaded cutlets). Avoid the dismal front dining room; request seating in the quaint tea house in back.
Duke’s Canoe Club (Map; 246-9599; Kaua′i Marriott Resort; appetizers $8-11, mains $18-30; 5-10pm) Even in chic Princeville and Po′ipu, you won’t find an evening spot more fun and lively than Duke’s, holding court on Kalapaki Beach. The steak-and-seafood menu is not very innovative, but dishes are well executed. The fresh catch baked ‘Duke’s style’ with garlic, lemon and basil glaze is a winner. Expect a touristy crowd (matching alohawear is not uncommon).
Duke’s Barefoot Bar (Map; 246-9599; Kaua′i Marriott Resort, Kalapaki Beach; tropical drinks $7.25, wine per glass $6-16; 11am-11pm) For either drinks or a meal, this is a convivial, Waikiki-style tropical bar, with ringside views of Kalapaki Beach. It’s a thrifty substitute for Duke’s Canoe Club, with similar full-fledged menu items, including fresh-fish tacos ($11), crab wontons ($8) and ‘hula pie’ ($6.50), a now-legendary mound of macadamia ice cream atop chocolate-cookie crust.
Café Portofino (Map; 245-2121; www.cafeportofino.com; Kaua′i Marriott Resort, Kalapaki Beach; appetizers $8-12, mains $16-29; 5-9:30pm) A textbook example of ‘romantic,’ this oceanfront restaurant appeals to particular tastes. Some appreciate the white tablecloths, low lighting and solo harpist, but others find Chef Maximillian Avocadi’s food overpriced and the formal atmosphere too staid. The traditional Italian menu features fine pastas and lots of veal, such as house specialty osso bucco (veal shank).
Gaylord’s (Map; 245-9593; www.kilohanakauai.com/gaylords.htm; Kilohana Plantation, Kaumuali