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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [410]

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setting (enhanced by the monks’ back-breaking gardening) equals that of a commercial garden. The temples, Ganesh statues and other structures are devoted to the god Shiva. While visitors can access a limited area (self-guided tour) from 9am to noon daily, we highly recommend taking a free guided tour offered once a week; call 888-735-1619 for tour dates and parking reservations.

Currently the temple in use is Kadavul Temple, where guests can see the world’s largest single-pointed quartz crystal, a 50-million-year-old, six-sided wonder that weighs 700lb and stands over 3ft tall. In the temple, meditating monks have been rotating in three-hour vigils round the clock since the temple was established in 1973.

Under construction is the ambitious Iraivan Temple, a monumental and almost incongruously imposing structure that’s being entirely handcarved from white granite by a village of artisans founded in Bangalore, India.

KEAHUA ARBORETUM

Sitting pretty at the top of Kuamo′o Rd, this arboretum resembles storybook countryside, with grassy fields, gurgling stream and groves of teak, eucalyptus and other tall trees. Locals enjoy swimming or splashing in the freshwater stream and pools, but remember that the water can contain the leptospirosis bacterium. The road continues past the arboretum parking lot, but you must cross water – not recommended if you’re driving a standard car, especially if it’s rainy.

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KAUA′I FOR CHILDREN

Float along backcountry waterways on inner tubes (Click here)

Slurp up a rainbow shave ice with the works at Jo-Jo’s Anuenue Shave Ice & Treats (Click here)

Feed a hungry pig herd on Kilohana Plantation’s train ride (Click here)

Explore two giant beachfront playgrounds (Click here)

Ride coaster bikes along the Eastside coastal path (Click here)

Introduce tots to the ocean at two baby beaches (p501 and Click here)

Find that special toy at Magic Dragon Toy & Art Supply Co (Click here)

Learn to surf at Hanalei Bay (Click here) or Po′ipu Beach Park (Click here)

Splash in the Grand Hyatt Kaua′i’s ‘river pools’ (Click here)

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KAMOKILA HAWAIIAN VILLAGE

While not a must-see, this replicated village is a pleasant diversion, especially for kids. It’s located along the Wailua River and includes traditional structures, from Canoe House to Chief’s Assembly House, amid thriving gardens of guava, mango and banana trees. Use your imagination! you’re on your own here, but the site is modest and the simple map given is sufficient.

Kamokila also offers outrigger canoe tours (adult/child $30/20; departures hourly 9:30am-2:30pm), which include a paddle, hike and waterfall swim. Because you start farther upriver from the mouth, the trip is shorter than going by kayak (see right) and a Hawaiian guide is guaranteed.

To get here, turn south from Kuamo′o Rd, opposite ′Opaeka′a Falls. The half-mile road leading to the village is very steep and narrow.

′OPAEKA′A FALLS

While not a showstopper, this 40ft waterfall makes an easy roadside stop, less than two miles up Kuamo′o Rd. For the best photographic conditions, go in the morning. Don’t be tempted to try trailblazing to the base of the falls. The steep cliffs are perilous, as shown in 2006 when two tourists died after falling almost 300ft while hiking. Instead, after viewing the falls, cross the road for a fantastic photo op of the Wailua River.

WAILUA BAY

Despite its natural beauty, this sandy bay is generally a ‘drive-by’ attraction. The water is typically too rough for swimming, although a summer surf break toward the south draws locals and also surf students. The sweeping stretch of sand is nice for walking but its location at the heavily trafficked Wailua Bridge makes the beach annoyingly visible and noisy.

Activities

KAYAKING

Majestic and calm, the Wailua River spans 12 miles, fed by two streams originating on Mt Wai′ale′ale. It’s the only navigable river across the Hawaiian Islands, and kayaking the Wailua has become a tourist must-do. Fortunately, the paddle is a doable 5 miles for all ages and fitness levels. Tours usually don

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