Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [412]
Believed to be the oldest luakini (temple dedicated to war god Ku, often place for human sacrifice) on the island, Holoholoku Heiau is located a quarter-mile up Kuamo′o Rd on the left. The whole area was royal property: toward the west, against the flat-backed birthstone marked by a plaque reading ‘Pohaku Ho′ohanau’ (royal birthstone), queens gave birth to future kings. Only a male child born here could become king of Kaua′i. Another stone a few yards away, marked ‘Pohaku Piko,’ was where the piko (umbilical cords) of the babies were left.
Perched high on a hill overlooking the meandering Wailua River, the well-preserved Poli′ahu Heiau, another luakini, is named after the snow goddess Poli′ahu, one of the volcano goddess Pele’s sisters. Poli′ahu Heiau is located immediately before the ′Opaeka′a Falls lookout, on the opposite side of the road.
Bear in mind, unmarked Hawaiian heiau might not catch your eye. Although they were originally imposing stone structures, most now lie in ruins, covered with scrub. It takes a leap of imagination for non-Hawaiians to appreciate heiau, but they are still powerful, set in places of great mana (spiritual energy).
Find an excellent brochure on the Wailua complex of heiau at www.hawaiistateparks.org/pdf/brochures/Hikinaakala.pdf. For a compelling history on the Wailua River’s meaning to ancient Hawaiians, see Edward Joesting’s Kauai: The Separate Kingdom.
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The Fern Grotto, formed below an overhanging cliff at the base of Mauna Kapu (Forbidden Mountain), looks rather tired nowadays, having suffered from a localized drought since the 1990s, when the sugar plantations above the cliff went out of production and weren’t irrigated anymore. The elongated sword ferns and delicate maidenhair seem to be struggling. If you’re expecting an eye-popping emerald cascade, you might as well find old pictures.
This hokey but homespun tour attracts tour groups and the older and less adventurous set. At the grotto, guests are serenaded with ‘Ke Kali Nei Au,’ known as the ‘Hawaiian Wedding Song’ after Elvis Presley sang it in English in Blue Hawaii.
HIKING
Eastside hikes ascend into Kaua′i’s tropical-jungle interior. Expect humid air, red dirt (or mud) and slippery patches after rains. See the Eastside Trails map (Click here).
Kuilau Ridge & Moalepe Trails
The Kuilau Ridge Trail (Map; 2.1 miles; all mileage distances given are one-way) is recommended for its sheer beauty: emerald valleys, colorful birds, dewy bushes, thick ferns and glimpses of misty Mt Wai′ale′ale in the distance. After 1 mile, you’ll see a grassy clearing with a picnic table; continue east in descending switchbacks until you reach the Moalepe Trail (Map; 2.25 miles). From here on, you’ll see Nounou Mountain and the Makaleha Mountains.
While they are independent trails, the two are often mentioned together because they connect and can be hiked in sequence. Both are moderate hikes and among the most visually rewarding on Kaua′i. Remember, the trails don’t complete a circuit so you must retrace your steps on a 9-mile out-and-back. Mountain bikers would also enjoy these forestland trails, although they’re used mostly by hikers and hunters.
If you plan on doing only one trail, choose the Kuilau Ridge Trail because it takes you immediately into the forest wilderness, while the first mile of the Moalepe Trail crosses the simple, treeless pastureland of the Wailua Game Management Area. Both trails are well maintained and signposted.
The Kuilau Ridge Trail starts at a marked trailhead on the right just before Kuamo′o Rd crosses the stream at the Keahua Arboretum, 4 miles above the junction of Kuamo′o Rd and Kamalu Rd. The Moalepe Trail trailhead is at the end of Olohena