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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [421]

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lot and Kuhio Hwy. Oceanfront rates vary wildly, from $149 to $289.

Dilly Dally House (821-0192; www.dillydallyhouse.com; 6395 Waipouli Rd; r $125-155, suite $165, cottage $185; ) At this fantastic B&B, units vary in size, but all feature chic furnishings, Tempurpedic mattresses on bed-frames fit for royalty, washer-dryer, private entrance and lanai. The drive to the house might seem long and confusing at first, but the reward is panoramic mountain and ocean views. The host couple serves scrumptious home-cooked breakfasts.

Kaua′i Country Inn (821-0207; www.kauaicountryinn.com; 6440 Olohena Rd; 1 & 2br $130-180, 3br cottage from $249; ) With gleaming hardwood floors and upscale furnishings, this inn is one class act. The four spacious suites all include cable TV/DVD, Macintosh computers, wi-fi, and kitchen or kitchenette. Kids under 12 are not allowed in suites, but are welcome in the three-bedroom cottage. Beatles fans, don’t miss the chance to gawk at the owner’s astounding collection of memorabilia.

Kealia Moon (822-5216; www.rosewoodkauai.com; 5111 Hassard Rd; 2br cottage $135; ) A great deal for two couples or a family of four, this immaculate cottage includes two bedrooms, two bathrooms, full kitchen, washer-dryer, multiple flat-screen TVs and a simple, local-style garage patio (the island version of the front stoop). The owners, who live next door, give enormous welcome baskets.

Eating & Drinking

Roadside restaurants abound, none terrible, some terribly touristy. Here are several local-favorite picks. Note that Kapa′a’s famous vegan eatery, Blossoming Lotus, closed in December 2008 after a successful five-year run.

Cost U Less (823-6803; www.costuless.com; 4525 Akia Rd; 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat, to 6pm Sun) This is the best place to stock up on supplies. Find not only mainstream brands, but also local produce and meat, plus ‘natural’ brands, such as Kashi and Tom’s of Maine. Most items are sold in large, family size. No membership is needed.

Java Kai (823-6887; www.javakai.com; 4-1384 Kuhio Hwy; coffee drinks $1.50-4.50; 6am-5pm Mon-Sat, 7am-1pm Sun) Always busy, this Kaua′i-based microroastery is best for grabbing a cup to go. The muffins, scones and cookies are baked fresh here, but it can feel like an oven inside. Sidewalk seating is limited.

Hawaiian Blizzard (www.hawaiianblizzard.com; outside Big Save, Kapa′a Shopping Center; small cup $3; noon-5pm Mon-Fri) Keep your eyes peeled for shave-ice virtuoso Aaron Furugen’s plain white van. He’s been perfecting the art of shave ice since the 1980s. Kids flock here after school and neighborhood regulars hang out and talk story.

Small Town Café (821-1604; 4-1495 Kuhio Hwy; coffee drinks $3-5; 5:30am-1pm daily, 6:30-9pm Tue-Thu; ) The best daytime hangout in town, this indie coffeehouse offers plentiful indoor/outdoor seating for leisurely chats or websurfing. The organic, free-trade coffee suits the hippie-boho crowd. Too bad it closes just when you’re getting comfy.

Country Moon Rising (822-2533; 4-1345 Kuhio Hwy; loaf $5; 7am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 3pm Fri & Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) There’s nothing like freshly baked bread, made here with organic flour and sea salt. Try the sprouted wheat sourdough (barely sour but with a pleasantly chewy bite) and the tropical sweet breads featuring taro, macnuts or pineapple. Other draws include locally grown papayas, takeout sandwiches and chilled coconuts with straws. Hours are changeable and the bakery’s often open into the early evening.

Coconut Cup Juice Bar (823-8630; 4-1586 Kuhio Hwy; fruit smoothies $6-7, sandwiches $8; 9am-5pm) The nonchain alternative to Jamba Juice, this roadside juice stand is a thirst-quenching oasis. Stop here for generously endowed sandwiches, from albacore tuna to avocado veggie and fresh-squeezed organic orange or carrot juice ($6 per 16oz).

Pono Market (822-4581; 4-1300 Kuhio Hwy; plate lunch $6.50; 6am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat) Fill up on local grinds (food) at this longtime hole in the wall, now with a full-fledged espresso bar. At lunch, line up for generous plate lunches, homemade sushi rolls,

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