Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [423]
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KEALIA BEACH
Visible from the highway at the 10-mile marker, this wide, long sandy beach is prime turf for local surfers and bodyboarders. The sandy bottom slopes offshore very gradually, making it possible to walk out far to catch long rides back. But the pounding barrels are treacherous and definitely not recommended for novices. A breakwater protects the north end, so swimming and snorkeling are occasionally possible there.
Parking is plentiful in a paved lot, but the beach is also accessible by bike or foot along the coastal path (Click here), which runs along the beach. There are rest rooms, picnic tables and pavilions, but no trees or natural shade. Sunscreen is a must.
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Detour: Donkey Beach
Unofficially known as a nude site, this beach is secluded and scenic, although rarely swimmable. Summer swells might be manageable, but stay ashore if you’re an inexperienced ocean swimmer. It’s a rugged place to escape the highway and cars, with rocks scattered at the water’s edge, windswept ironwood trees, and naupaka (a native Hawaiian shrub with a five-petaled white flower that looks as if it has been torn in half) and ′ilima (a yellow flowering ground cover), adding dashes of color.
To get here, either take the coastal path (Click here) or drive to a small lot about halfway between the 11- and 12-mile markers and then find the ‘Public Shoreline Access’ sign. Rest rooms are open at the parking lot.
Note: nudity is illegal in Hawaii.
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ANAHOLA
pop 1930
Blink and you’ll miss the predominantly Native Hawaiian village of Anahola, where there are subdivisions of Hawaiian Homestead lots at the southern and northern ends. Pineapple and sugar plantations once thrived here but today the area is mainly residential. The few who lodge here will find themselves in rural seclusion among true locals.
Grouped together at the side of Kuhio Hwy, just south of the 14-mile marker, Anahola’s modest commercial center includes a post office (8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9:30-11:30am Sat), burger stand and convenience store.
Sights & Activities
ANAHOLA BEACH PARK
Hidden from the highway, this locals’ beach makes an easy getaway – more secluded yet still drive-up accessible. Because this county park sits on Hawaiian Home Lands, you’ll probably share the beach with Hawaiian families, especially on weekends. Remember, it’s their beach: respect the locals. The wide bay, fringed with a decent swath of lovely sandy beach, is a surfers’ hot spot on the choppier south end. But toward the north, waters are calm enough for swimming. There are two ways to get here: for the south end, turn off Kuhio Hwy onto Kukuihale Rd at the 13-mile marker, drive a mile down and then turn onto the dirt beach road. For the north end, take ′Aliomanu Rd at the 14-mile marker and park in the sandy lot.
′ALIOMANU BEACH
Secluded ′Aliomanu Beach is another spot frequented primarily by locals, who pole- and throw-net fish and gather limu (seaweed). It’s a mile-long stretch of beach; you can get to the prettier north end by turning onto ′Aliomanu Rd (Second), just past the 15-mile marker on Kuhio Hwy. Don’t take ′Aliomanu Rd (First), a mile south, by mistake! Then, turn left onto Kalalea View Dr, go 0.5 miles and turn right at the beach access sign.
HOLE IN THE MOUNTAIN
Ever since a landslide altered this once-obvious landmark, the puka (hole) in Pu′u Konanae has been a mere sliver. From slightly north of the 15-mile marker along Hwy 56, look back at the mountain, down to the right of the tallest pinnacle: on sunny days you’ll see a smile of light shining through a slit in the rock face. Legend tells the original hole was created when a giant threw his spear through the mountain, causing the water stored within to gush forth as waterfalls.
BODYWORK
Angeline’s Mu′olaulani (822-3235; www.angelinelomikauai.com; Kamalomalo′o Pl; massage treatment