Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [431]
St Regis Princeville (826-9644, 800-325-3589; www.princevillehotelhawaii.com; 5520 Ka Haku Rd; r $750-6500; ) Scheduled to be open by the time you read this, the St Regis Princeville has four restaurants, including the first Jean-Georges Vongerichten restaurant in Hawaii, and a locally revered lobby bar (opposite). A 5000 sq ft infinity pool overlooks Pu′u Poa (Hideaways Beach) and Hanalei Bay. you’re right to expect that even the ‘cheapest’ rooms are opulent. Decorated with a contemporary Hawaiian design, each has custom-designed furniture, one-way viewing glass and marble bathrooms. The higher-range options include your own round-the-clock butler service, which comes with a personal unpacker. The resort also is home to the Halele′a Spa (House of Joy), an 11,000 sq ft palatial escape for massages, replete with couples and VIP treatment rooms. The spa also houses a nail and hair salon and 24-hour fitness center.
Eating
BUDGET
North Shore Café (826-1122; Princeville Center; breakfast $2.75-5; lunch & dinner $8-22; 6am-8pm Mon-Sat) For the cheapest hot breakfast in town this gas-station watering hole offers up popular breakfast sandwiches and makes a decent pizza. It’s inside the North Shore General Store & Café.
Lappert’s Ice Cream (826-7393; Princeville Center; 10am-9pm) The sweet smell from the waffle cones beckons, and the delectable locally inspired options are sure not to disappoint. Don’t miss out. Get the Kauai Pie Kona coffee ice cream, toasted coconut, macnuts, fudge and vanilla cake.
The Foodland Market (826-9880; Princeville Center; 6am-11pm) has the basics: deli, bakery, produce and beer.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Paradise Bar & Grill (826-1775; Princeville Center; mains $11-25; 11am-11pm) Pub food with a little ’tude, but if you’ve got the time, the burgers and fish are juicy and fresh.
CJ’s Steak & Seafood (826-6211; Princeville Center; dinner mains $22-38; 6-9:30pm) CJ’s is a Princeville standard, thanks to its cuisine of prime rib, shrimp, lobster and fresh fish, all done up expertly without the frills (you won’t find any wasabi marinades here).
Nanea (827-8700; Westin Princeville Ocean Resort Villas Clubhouse; dinner mains $31-38; 630-10:30am & 5:30-9:30pm; ) A new kid in town, Nanea has ironed out its kinks and is a bit of a show-off with its elegant Hawaii fusion cuisine, locally grown produce and inventive uses of island honey and Kilauea goat cheese.
Drinking & Entertainment
St Regis Princeville (826-2788; www.princevillehotelhawaii.com; 5520 Ka Haku Rd; 6pm Mon & Thu) This swanky place offers the chance to eat, drink and be merry while strolling around the oceanfront pool of its opulent digs, should you have missed the chance to stay here as a guest. For the only beach luau on-island, go to the South Shore’s Sheraton.
Saffron (826-6225; 5300 Ka Haku Rd; www.saffron-hawaii.com; 6-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat) When you’re ready for some Euro-style tapas and early evening cocktails, come to this place. Sink into a couch on Wednesdays and Saturdays and sip cocktails while listening to live music ranging from contemporary Hawaiian to classical guitar.
Lobby bar at St Regis Princeville (826-9644, 800-325-3589; www.princevillehotelhawaii.com; 5520 Ka Haku Rd; 3-11pm) The much anticipated Spring 2009 reopening and ‘reconcepted’ cocktail-hour staple offers undeniably unforgettable views that are, dare we say, the best of Hanalei Bay, making this a the ultimate choice for sunset cocktails. It was closed for renovations when we visited, so call ahead to check that it’s open.
Shopping
Magic Dragon Toy & Art Supply Co (826-9144, Princeville Center; 9am-6pm ) Kites, paints, pinwheels – this place is great for kids or the kid in you. Stuffed toys, including depictions of Frida Kahlo and Salvador Dalí, make this intriguing shop among the most original in the Princeville Center.
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HANALEI VALLEY
Dense with deep kalo loi (taro fields), there is a mist that hovers above