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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [437]

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Chicken salad stuffed in a halved papaya or avocado and served with a frosty brew makes for a pleasant lunch.

Neide’s Salsa Samba (826-1851; Hanalei Center; dishes $9-17; 11am-2:30pm & 5-9pm) The more original items on the menu include muqueca (fresh fish with coconut sauce), ensopado (baked chicken and vegetables), and bife acebolado (beefsteak with onions).

If you’re self-catering, Big Save (826-6652; Ching Young Village; 7am-9pm) has an ATM and any necessary basic grocery items you might need.

MIDRANGE & TOP END

Polynesia Café (826-1999; Ching Young Village; mains $11-17; 8am-9pm) Fresh and buttery ingredients in a casual patio setting, where you can feast on seared ahi tacos or rich macnut-encrusted opah (moonfish) with rice. Breakfast is also great here, with eggs Benedict and a heavy breakfast burrito that will keep even the perpetually hungry pretty full. Also choose from a smattering of homemade desserts – perfect for picnic lunches to take to the beach.

Hanalei Dolphin Fish Market (826-6113; 5-5016 Kuhio Hwy; lunches $12-14; sushi rolls $10-14; 10am-7pm) Grab your poke and plate lunches here.

Kalypso Island Bar & Grill (826-9700; www.kalypsokauai.com; G4-5156 Kuhio Hwy; mains $12-30; 11am-9pm) Ambience and sincere, attentive service make the ‘Hawaiian’ pub fare (aloha, coconut shrimp!) easier to take.

Postcards Café (826-1191; www.postcardscafé.com; 5-5075 Kuhio Hwy; mains $18-27; 6-9pm) Postcards has a cottagelike ambience and its pupu platter is worth a try, with taro fritters, seafood rockets, summer rolls and seared ahi.

Bouchons (826-9701; www.sushiandblues.com; Ching Young Village; sushi rolls $8-16; 6pm-2am, sushi bar noon-9pm, happy hour 3:30-5:30pm) The service isn’t all that attentive, but if you’ve got a hankering for sushi and sake, this is the place to get it. Take your time and go for happy hour.

Bar Acuda Tapas & Wine (826-7081; Hanalei Center; tapas, $8-15; mains $22-30; 11:30am-2:30pm & 6-9:30pm Tue-Sat) A trendy wine and tapas scene presents ornately plated food that’s noteworthy, but expensive. Pluses include inventive uses of local products, like North Shore honeycomb, Kunana Farms goat cheese, plus Mizuna greens and apples.

Entertainment

Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar Concerts (826-1469; www.hawaiianslackkeyguitar.com; Hanalei Community Center; adult/child & senior $10/8; 4pm Fri & 3pm Sun) You’ll find slack key guitar and ukulele concerts performed by longtime musicians Doug and Sandy McMaster year-round here, in a refreshingly informal atmosphere.

Shopping

Ching Young Village has some great spots for outfitting yourself in some Kaua′i chic, while the Hanalei Center is where many a Kaua′i surfer girl, and most of the clothing that typifies the North Shore, can be found.

Hanalei Paddler (826-8797; Hanalei Center; 9am-8pm) Don’t miss out on the surfer-chic workout threads by Andrea Smith (www.brasilbazar.com). Paddlers and surfer girls alike show up here in droves.

Hanalei Surf Company (826-9000; www.hanaleisurf.com; Hanalei Center, 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy; 8am-9pm) Surf, surf, surf is its MO. Surfer-girl earrings, bikinis, rashies and guys’ surf shorts, slippers and all the surf gear you might need: wax, shades and even the board itself.

Backdoor (826-1900; Ching Young Village; 5-5190 Kuhio Hwy; 9am-9pm) The same owner as Hanalei Surf Company extends the range to Los Angeles–inspired name brands and the skating lifestyle, harkening back to the days of Tony Hawk, Velcro and checker-pattern vans.

Evolve Love Gallery (826-6441; Ching Young Village; 10am-6pm) Chock-full of vibrant, inspired paintings, batiks and some serious sea bling. Ni′ihau shell and pearls are among the jewels adorning the work.

Bikini Room (826-9965; www.thebikiniroom.com; 10am-5pm, to 2pm Sun) They’re itsy bitsy and teeny weenie, but include cheetah and a variety of wild, vibrant prints instead of the usual polka dot. Great for those blessed with a body that just won’t quit.

Root (826-2575; 4489 Aku Rd; 9:30am-7:30pm, noon-5pm Sun) This North Shore spot opted out of carrying swimwear. Instead it offers unique lingerie,

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