Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [460]
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WAIMEA
pop 1790
One of several Waimeas in Hawai′i, this is not the surfing mecca nor is it the upscale cowboy town. This is the most historic Westside town, and its history can be seen from the ground up.
‘Waimea’ means reddish-brown water, and it refers to the river that picks up salt from the canyon and colours the ocean red. It was here that Captain Cook landed in 1778.
As is common in Hawaii, sugar played a role in the development of Waimea and the skeleton of the old Waimea mill can still be seen across the tech centers that house defence contractors working at the Pacific Missile Range Facility. The juxtaposition of what was the old economy and what some see as the economy of the future can be seen as symbolic.
Information
Aloha-N-Paradise (338 1522; 9905 Waimea Rd; 7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) Next to the post office; offers internet access (per half-hour $4) and all-day wi-fi with your own laptop. In the back a barista serves up locally roasted coffee drinks and pastries, while the front room has a seating area and art gallery for perusal.
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PIE-EATING CONTEST
Liliko′i (passion fruit), is a delectable, lightly sweet and somewhat tart flavour enhancer for muffins, mousses and pies. Take a detour and compare two of the self-proclaimed best liliko′i pies on the island, both of which can be found on the Westside, at either Hanapepe’s Omoide Bakery & Wong’s Chinese Deli (opposite) or Aunty Lilikoi (Click here) in Waimea.
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First Hawaiian Bank (338-1611; 4525 Panako Rd) On Waimea’s central square.
Na Pali Explorer (338-9999, 877-335-9909; www.napali-explorer.com; Kaumuali′i Hwy; per 30min $3; 7am-5pm) One-stop shop for internet access, simple souvenirs, light snacks and snorkel-cruise and sportfishing bookings.
Sights
WEST KAUA′I TECHNOLOGY & VISITORS CENTER
A good historical orientation point to the Westside, this two-phase complex doubles as a visitor center (338-1332; 9565 Kaumuali′i Hwy; admission free; 9:30am-5pm Mon-Fri) and offers a free, 2½-hour walking tour at 9:30am Mondays.
LUCY WRIGHT PARK
Though this park was the landing site of Captain Cook, the people chose to name it in honour of Lucy Wright, a revered schoolteacher. Here you’ll find access to the river and beach, as well as camping facilities, though not much in the way of scenery. Click here for information about camping permits.
KIKI A OLA (MENEHUNE DITCH)
Not much remains to be seen of this unique and still-functional ditch or aqueduct, but its archaeological significance begs repeating. It is the only example of precontact cut and dressed stonework in Hawaii, said to be the work of the menehune, who completed it within one night for the ali′i.
RUSSIAN FORT ELIZABETH
Russia befriended Kaua′i’s King Kaumuali′i in the early 1800s; the relationship stood to help Kaumuali′i overcome King Kamehameha, and Russians to use Hawaii as an oceangoing stop during their reign as prominent fur traders. The fort was begun in September 1816, but within a year was stopped – perhaps due to King Kamehameha’s orders or to general suspicion of the Russians. Hawaiian troops used the fort until 1864. Now its remains look much like a sea-battered lava-rock wall.
Activities
SNORKELING
There are three outfits offering Na Pali Coast snorkel tours from Kikiaola Small Boat Harbour.
Na Pali Riders (742-6331; www.napaliriders.com; 9600 Kaumuali′ Hwy; morning tour adult/child $109/98, afternoon tour $87) is hosted by Captain Chris Turner, who is passionate about what he does and likes to think of his tour as being National Geographic style. Turner offers an intimate setting, healthy snacks and a CD of photographs and movie taken on the trip, along with the feeling that you’re going out with some of your favourite ragamuffin friends.
Liko Ho′okano (338-0333, 888-732-5456; www.liko-kauai.com; 9875 Waimea