Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [472]
By 1923 every last rabbit was removed, and the rehabilitation of Laysan began. Incredibly, with weed-abatement assistance, native plantlife recovered, and so did the birds. The Laysan finch is again common, and the Laysan duck numbers about 300 (another small population has been established on Midway). About 160,000 pairs of Laysan albatross now live on the island, making it again one of the world’s largest colonies. Nearly the same sequence of events unfolded on nearby Lisianski Island and, together, these islands are a success story that Fish & Wildlife officials consider one of their finest achievements.
MIDWAY ISLANDS
The Midway Islands were an important naval air station during WWII, but they are best known as the site of a pivotal battle in June 1942, when American forces surprised an attacking Japanese fleet and defeated it. This victory is credited with turning the tide in the Pacific theater. Postwar, Midway became a staging point for Cold War air patrols.
By 1996 the military no longer needed Midway, and transferred jurisdiction to the US Fish & Wildlife Service (FWS). Before leaving, it conducted an extensive cleanup program to remove debris, contaminants, rats and nonnative plants. Midway was then developed for tourism: barracks became hotel rooms, the mess hall a cafeteria. A museum and restaurant were added. A gym, theater (for movies), bowling alley and library were part of the original military facility. On Sand Island, various military structures (like gun emplacements) were designated a National Historical Landmark. Until 2002, up to 100 visitors a day were allowed, then the concessionaire pulled out (due to financial losses) and visitation ended. Today, it has resumed.
The prime highlight at Midway is the more than two million seabirds who nest here, including the world’s largest colony of Laysan albatross, which are so thick between November and July that they virtually blanket the ground. Also, Midway’s coral reefs are unusually rich and are frequented by dolphins, sea turtles and Hawaiian monk seals.
VISITING THE MONUMENT
The Papahanaumokuakea Marine National Monument (www.hawaiireef.noaa.gov) can be visited online or in Hilo, Hawai′i, at the Mokupapapa Discovery Center (Click here). In 2008, regular visitation to Midway had resumed. Facilities are managed by the US Fish & Wildlife Service (www.fws.gov/midway), which issues visitation permits to organizations that comply with regulations. Current facilities and visitor impacts are being closely monitored, so expect changes. For now, the Oceanic Society (800-326-7491; www.oceanic-society.org) offers a dozen one-week trips a year from November through June (to coincide with albatross season). Group sizes are kept to 15 people, and trips cost around $5000 per person (you fly from Honolulu).
Good places to learn more about the monument include Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Multi-Agency Education Project (www.hawaiianatolls.org) and Kahea (www.kahea.org/nwhi).
* * *
Directory
* * *
ACCOMMODATIONS
ACTIVITIES
BUSINESS HOURS
CHILDREN
CLIMATE CHARTS
COURSES
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
DISCOUNTS
FOOD
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS
HOLIDAYS
INSURANCE
INTERNATIONAL VISITORS
INTERNET ACCESS
LEGAL MATTERS
MAPS
PHOTOGRAPHY
SHOPPING
SOLO TRAVELERS
TOURIST INFORMATION
TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES
VOLUNTEERING
WOMEN TRAVELERS
WORK
* * *
ACCOMMODATIONS
With prices to suit all budgets, Hawaii accommodations are as varied as they come – choose from campgrounds, rustic cabins, hostels, rural and upscale B&Bs, a wide range of hotels, all-inclusive