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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [54]

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on the island’s Windward Coast.

In 1971 the first Hawaiian Masters surfing competition was held on O′ahu’s North Shore. By the 1980s, rampant tourist development had overbuilt Waikiki and turned some of O′ahu’s agricultural land into water-thirsty golf courses and sprawling resorts. The island’s last remaining sugar mills closed in the 1990s, leaving O′ahu more heavily dependent on tourism than ever. Debates about economic diversification, sustainable tourism and also the continuing US military presence continue today.

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O′AHU ITINERARIES

In Two Days

Got only a weekend in the sun? Then it’s all about you and Waikiki (Click here). Laze on the beach (Click here), enjoy the sunset torch lighting and hula show at Kuhio Beach Park (Click here) and dine at Roy’s – Waikiki Beach (Click here). The next day get up early to snorkel at Hanauma Bay (Click here), then hike up Diamond Head (Click here) or out to the lighthouse at Makapu′u Point (Click here). Reward yourself later with a few mai tais on a catamaran cruise (Click here) or at the Halekulani’s posh House Without a Key (Click here).

In Four Days

With two extra days, you can rent a car and drive to the North Shore (Click here) and the Windward Coast (Click here). Stop off at whatever beaches catch your eye – especially, say, around Waimea Bay (Click here) or Kailua Bay (Click here). Spend at least a full morning or afternoon exploring the capital city of Honolulu (Click here), with its impressive museums, historical sites and revitalized Chinatown.

For Foodies

O′ahu dominates the other Hawaiian Islands when it comes to food. Taste goodness straight from the land and sea at the Diamond Head farmers market (Click here), Kaimuki’s Town (Click here) restaurant and Lanikai Juice (Click here) over on the Windward Coast. Izakaya (Japanese pubs serving food) are all the rage across Honolulu (Click here), while pan-Asian eateries inhabit Chinatown (Click here). Don’t leave the island without trying traditional Hawaiian cuisine, not at a touristy luau (Hawaiian feast) but at Ono Hawaiian Food (Click here) on the outskirts of Waikiki, which has plenty of local flavor if you know where to look. When the bikini gets tight, you’ve conquered the island.

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CLIMATE

O′ahu has two barely discernable seasons: summer (May to October), when higher humidity is likely, and winter (November to April), when it rains more frequently. Year-round, air temperatures vary between approximately 70°F and 80°F.

O′ahu has microclimates, governed by the weather patterns of the tradewinds and their interaction with the island’s two mountain ranges. The prevailing tradewinds move across the island from the northeast, where most of the moisture is deposited, making the Windward Coast and eastern Ko′olau Range lush and relatively cooler.

The winds then move westward across the interior of the island, bumping against the Wai′anae Range, which exacts any remaining moisture, leaving the west side (also known as the Wai′anae or Leeward Coast) and coastal Honolulu and Waikiki dry and warm. During the winter months, Kona winds reverse all of these trends, bringing heavy rain to normally dry parts of the island. O′ahu’s homes are traditionally built with louvered windows to catch the tradewinds, but air-con is a welcome modern convenience in hot-and-sweaty Honolulu and Waikiki.

The National Weather Service provides recorded weather forecasts (973-4381) and marine conditions (973-4382) for O′ahu. Click here for more climate information.


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NATIONAL, STATE & COUNTY PARKS

Even though O′ahu is Hawaii’s most populous island, nature sits right outside of Honolulu’s glass skyscrapers and Waikiki’s high-rise hotels. About 25% of the island is protected natural areas. The entire coastline is dotted with beaches, while the lush mountainous interior is carved by hiking trails, including in forest reserves around Mt Tantalus (Click here), where you’ll find city skyline views and the jungly Lyon Arboretum (Click

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