Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [69]
HAWAI′I HERITAGE CENTER
Local volunteers with family ties to the community run this friendly gallery (Map; 521-2749; 1040 Smith St; 9am-2pm Mon-Sat) that offers changing exhibitions on O′ahu’s Chinese and other ethnic communities. The center also organizes historical walking tours (Click here).
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FLOWER POWER
Chinatown herbalists are both physicians and pharmacists, with walls full of small wooden drawers, each filled with a different herb. They’ll size you up, feel your pulse and listen to you describe your ailments before deciding which drawers to open, mixing herbs and flowers and wrapping them for you to take home and boil together. Find traditional herbalists at the Chinatown Cultural Plaza, Leanne Chee Chinese Herbs & Acupuncture (Map; 533-2498; 1159 Maunakea St) or Anna Li Clinic of Chinese Medicine (Map; 537-1133; 1121 Nu′uanu Ave).
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KUAN YIN TEMPLE
With its green ceramic-tile roof and bright red columns, this ornate Chinese Buddhist temple (Map; 533-6361; 170 N Vineyard Blvd; admission free; sunrise-sunset) is Honolulu’s oldest. The richly carved interior is filled with the sweet, pervasive smell of burning incense. The temple is dedicated to Kuan Yin, goddess of mercy, whose statue is the largest in the interior prayer hall. Devotees burn paper ‘money’ for prosperity and good luck, while offerings of fresh flowers and fruit are placed at the altar. The large citrus fruit stacked pyramid-style is pomelo, a symbol of fertility because of its many seeds. Respectful visitors are welcome.
IZUMO TAISHA
Across the river, this shintō shrine (Map; 538-7778; 215 N Kukui St; admission free; 9am-4pm) was built by Japanese immigrants in 1906. During WWII the property was confiscated by the city; it wasn’t returned to the community until 1962. The 100lb sacks of rice near the altar symbolize good health. Ringing the bell at the shrine entrance is considered an act of purification for those who come to pray and seek blessings, especially on January 1, when the temple heaves with celebrants from all around O′ahu.
TAOIST TEMPLE
Founded in 1889, the Lum Sai Ho Tong Society was one of more than 100 societies started by Chinese immigrants in Hawaii to help preserve their cultural identity. This one was for the Lum clan, hailing from west of the Yellow River. At one time the society had more than 4000 members, and even now there are nearly a thousand Lums in the Honolulu phone book.
The society’s Taoist temple (Map; 1315 River St) honors the goddess Tin Hau, a Lum child who rescued her father from drowning and was later deified. Some believers still claim to see her apparition when traveling by boat. The temple is not usually open to the public, but you can admire the colorful exterior while walking by.
Ala Moana & University Area
Meaning ‘Path to the Sea,’ Ala Moana is the nickname of the area west of Waikiki, which includes Honolulu’s largest beach park and Hawaii’s largest shopping center.
ALA MOANA BEACH PARK
Opposite Ala Moana Center mall, this park (Map; 1201 Ala Moana Blvd; admission free; ) claims a nearly mile-long golden beach buffered from passing traffic by shade trees. Honolulu residents go jogging, play volleyball and enjoy weekend picnics here, yet it never feels too crowded. The beach is safe for swimming and a good spot for distance laps. However, at low tide the deep channel running the length of the beach can be a hazard if you don’t realize it’s there – it drops off suddenly to overhead depths. The park has full beach facilities, 10 tennis courts lighted for night play and free parking.
The peninsula jutting from the east side of the park is ′Aina Moana State Recreation Area, aka Magic Island.