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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [75]

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valley and the ocean beyond. This Manoa Cliffs Circuit, aka the Big Loop, starts on the same Maunalaha Trail, then takes the Moleka Trail to the Manoa Cliff, Kalawahine and Nahuina Trails. At the Kalawahine Trail intersection, detour to the right along the Pauoa Flats Trail up to Nu′uanu Valley Lookout (see opposite). From the lookout, backtrack to the Kalawahine Trail, which connects with the Kanealole Trail back down to the forest baseyard.

The starting point for both hikes is the Makiki Forest Recreation Area baseyard, about 0.5 miles up Makiki Heights Dr, if you’re approaching from Makiki St. The forest baseyard turnoff is a little lane at a sharp bend in the main road. Park along the shoulder before reaching the Hawaii Nature Center and a branch office of Hawaii’s Division of Forestry & Wildlife (Click here). From downtown Honolulu, take TheBus 15, which runs into Pacific Heights. Get off near the intersection of Mott-Smith and Makiki Heights Drs and walk about a mile further along Makiki Heights Dr to the baseyard. From Waikiki, take TheBus 4 Nu′uanu-Dowsett/Pauoa to the corner of Wilder Ave and Makiki St, then walk a mile up Makiki St.

PU′U ′OHI′A (MT TANTALUS) TRAIL

Along the Tantalus–Round Top loop drive (Click here), a network of hiking trails littered with fragrant liliko‘i (passion fruit) encircles Mt Tantalus, offering contemplative forest hikes with city views. The hardy Pu′u ′Ohi‘a Trail (Map), in conjunction with the Pauoa Flats Trail, leads up to the Nu′uanu Valley Lookout (see opposite), traveling nearly 2 miles each way. You’ll find this trailhead at the very top of Tantalus Dr, 3.6 miles up from Makiki Heights Dr; there’s a large turnoff for parking opposite the trailhead.

The trail begins with reinforced log steps, leading past fragrant ginger, musical bamboo groves and lots of eucalyptus, a fast-growing tree planted to protect the watershed. After 0.5 miles, the trail summits Mt Tantalus (2013ft), also called Pu′u ‘Ohia. From below Mt Tantalus, the trail leads back onto a service road that ends at a telephone relay station. Behind the building, the trail continues until it reaches the Manoa Cliff Trail, where you’ll go left. At the next intersection, turn right onto the Pauoa Flats Trail, which leads to the Nu′uanu Valley Lookout high in the Ko′olau Range. The flats area can be muddy; be careful not to trip on exposed tree roots.

You’ll pass two trailheads before reaching the lookout. The first is Nu′uanu Trail, on the left, which runs 0.75 miles along the western side of the upper Pauoa Valley, offering broad views of Honolulu and the Wai′anae Range. The second is the ′Aihualama Trail, a bit further along on the right, which takes you 1.3 miles through tranquil bamboo groves and past huge old banyan trees to Manoa Falls (see opposite).

WA′AHILA RIDGE TRAIL

Popular with families, the boulder-strewn Wa′ahila Ridge Trail (Map) offers a cool retreat amid Norfolk pines and endemic plants, with ridgetop views of Honolulu and Waikiki. The 4.8-mile trail covers a variety of terrain in a short time, making an enjoyable afternoon’s walk for novice hikers. Look for the Na Ala Hele trailhead sign just past the picnic tables deep inside Wa′ahila Ridge State Recreation Area, at the back of the St Louis Heights subdivision, east of Manoa Valley.

By car, follow Wai′alae Ave east of Waikiki into the Kaimuki neighborhood (see off-map arrow, Map), then turn left onto St Louis Dr. Turn right near the top of Peter St, then left onto Ruth Pl, which runs west into the park. From Waikiki, TheBus 14 St Louis Heights stops at the intersection of Peter and Ruth Sts, about a 15-minute walk from the trailhead.

Whale Watching

From late December through mid-April, Atlantis Adventures (Map; 973-1311, 800-548-6262; www.atlantisadventures.com; Pier 6, Aloha Tower Dr) offers naturalist-led whale-watching cruises aboard the Navatek I, a sleek, high-tech catamaran designed to minimize rolling. Tours (2½-hour tour including buffet lunch adult/child $65/33) usually depart at noon daily. Reservations are recommended.

Cycling

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