Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [81]
Side Street Inn (Map; 591-0253; 1225 Hopaka St; plate lunches $6-8, shared dishes $8-18; 10am-1:30pm Mon-Fri, 4pm-midnight daily) The outside looks like hell, and the sports-bar atmosphere wouldn’t rate on a Zagat’s survey, but this late-night mecca is where you’ll find some of Honolulu’s top chefs hanging out in the Naugahyde booths up front after work. Divinely tender kalbi short ribs and pork chops are the most famous dishes. Look for a new branch opening on Waikiki’s Kapahulu Ave soon.
Sushi Izakaya Gaku (Map; 589-1329; 1329 S King St; shared dishes $8-25; 5-11pm Mon-Sat) Popularized by word-of-mouth, this izakaya (Japanese pub serving food) beats the competition with adherence to tradition and supremely fresh sushi and sashimi. A spread of savory and sweet hot and cold dishes includes hard-to-find specialties like chazuke (tea-soaked rice porridge) and natto (fermented soybeans). Reservations are recommended.
Jimbo Restaurant (Map; 947-2211; 1936 S King St; mains $9-15; 11am-3pm daily, 5-10pm Sun-Thu, 5-10:30pm Fri & Sat) Folks from around O′ahu drop by for handmade soba and thick udon noodles, all made fresh daily, and always fresh and flavorful. Order them cooked in hot broth on rainy days or chilled on a summer’s afternoon, then slurp your way to happiness.
Pavilion Café (Map; 532-8734; Honolulu Academy of Arts, 900 S Beretania St; mains $9-15; 11:30am-1:30pm Tue-Sat) Looking out onto courtyard fountains, this lovely museum café offers a tantalizing light variety of market-fresh salads and sandwiches, decadent desserts and a refreshing wine list. It’s an indulgent way to support the arts. Reservations are recommended, particularly during special events and exhibitions.
Pineapple Room (Map; 945-6573; 3rd fl, Macy’s, Ala Moana Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd; prix-fixe lunch $22, dinner mains $19-35; 11am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8:30pm Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) Although Honolulu foodies may howl in disagreement, we prefer Alan Wong’s dressed-down café to his eponymous King St restaurant. Besides, you’ll pay less here. All of Chef Wong’s classics are made in the exhibition kitchen, along with island-style comfort food like the kalua pig BLT sandwich. Desserts are killer, especially the five-sorbet sampler with knock-out pairings of fresh fruit, nuts and candy. Reservations recommended.
TOP END
Alan Wong’s (949-2526; www.alanwongs.com; 1857 S King St; mains $27-52; 5-10pm) One of O′ahu’s most celebrated chefs, Alan Wong offers his creative, occasionally whimsical interpretations of Hawaii Regional cuisine with extra emphasis on fresh seafood and local produce, especially at bimonthly ‘farmers series’ dinners. Skip the daily tasting menus, however. Instead rely on signature dishes like ginger-crusted onaga (red snapper) and twice-cooked kalbi short ribs. Reservations are essential; request a windowside table.
Chef Mavro (Map; 944-4714; 1969 S King St; 4-course dinner without/with wine pairings $69/108; 6:30-9:30pm) At Honolulu’s most avant-garde restaurant, maverick chef George Mavrothalassitis creates conceptual dishes like abalone ceviche with red chimichurri (Argentine herb sauce) paired with Old and New World wines. Textures and fragrances are as important as flavor, which unfortunately means that the cuisine, like the half-empty atmosphere, may fall flat.
University Area
Near the University of Hawai′i’s Manoa campus is a cluster of ethnic restaurants that’ll go easy on your wallet. It’s just a short bus ride from Waikiki.
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LATE-NIGHT BITES
An easy walk from the Ala Moana Center, Shokudo Japanese (opposite) and the Side Street Inn (opposite) both keep their kitchens open later than the sleepy-headed island norm, and so do these places:
Liliha Bakery (Map; 531-1651; 515 N Kuakini, cnr Liliha St; mains $6-10; nonstop 6am Tue-8pm Sun) All-night diner and bakery causes traffic jams for its coco puff pastries.
Sorabol (Map; 947-3113; 805 Ke′eaumoku St; mains $10-37; 24hr) Feeds lunching ladies by day and bleary-headed