High Tide in Hawaii - Mary Pope Osborne [5]
Everyone laughed.
Then Kama picked bananas off a banana tree and gave them to Jack and Annie. Jack peeled his and took a bite. It was the best banana he’d ever eaten.
When breakfast was over, they all headed into the flowery meadow. The sky was the bluest blue Jack had ever seen. The grass was the greenest green. The flowers and birds sparkled like jewels.
Hawaii is like a garden paradise, Jack thought.
He wanted to look up Hawaiian birds and flowers in the research book. As the others kept walking, he stopped and pulled out the book.
“Jack! Come look!” Annie shouted. She was standing at the edge of a cliff with Boka and Kama.
Jack put away the book and hurried to join the others. He looked down at a beach fifty feet below.
There were no people. Only seashells and seaweed lay on the glistening white sand. Big, foamy waves crashed against the shore.
“Wow!” said Annie.
Uh-oh, thought Jack.
Boka looked at Jack and grinned.
“Ready?” he asked.
“I’m ready!” said Annie. “Where do we get our surfboards?”
“Down there,” said Kama. She pointed to a rocky path that led to the beach.
“Let’s go,” said Annie.
Annie, Boka, and Kama started down the path. Jack followed, moving slowly and carefully.
When he stepped onto the beach, Jack slipped off his shoes. He dug his toes into the dry, warm sand. It felt as soft as silk.
“Actually, I wouldn’t mind just taking a walk on the beach,” he said to the others.
But no one seemed to hear. They had all walked over to a row of wooden surfboards propped against the rocks.
Boka picked out a long board and lugged it over to Jack. “For you,” he said.
Jack took the board and looked up at it. It was as tall as his dad.
“Isn’t this a little big for me?” he asked.
Boka shook his head. He chose a board for Annie. Then he and Kama grabbed a couple for themselves.
Jack took a deep breath. “I’d like to read a little about surfing first,” he said. He put his board down and pulled out the research book.
“What is that?” asked Kama.
“It’s a book,” said Jack. “It tells you about things.”
“How does it talk?” said Kama.
“It doesn’t talk,” said Annie. “You read it.”
Kama looked confused.
“Jack, forget the book now,” Annie said. “Let’s just do what Boka and Kama tell us.” She headed for the ocean, lugging her board.
Jack sighed and put the book away. He left his pack in the sand, picked up his board, and followed the others.
They all stopped at the edge of the water.
“First we need to get past the breaking waves,” said Kama. “Then we’ll show you what to do next.”
Together they waded into the cool, shallow water. The waves don’t seem all that big, Jack thought hopefully.
But as he waded deeper into the ocean, the breaking waves began to look bigger and bigger. When the first wave hit him, Jack leaned against it, lifting his board. He nearly fell over.
Kama, Boka, and Annie moved farther out into the ocean. Jack watched as a wave loomed over them. They all threw their boards over the wave and dove into it.
Jack struggled forward. The next time a big wave came toward him, he threw his board over it. Holding his glasses tightly, he ducked under.
When Jack stood up again, he wiped the water from his eyes and glasses. His surfboard was close by. He grabbed it before another wave came.
Jack kept fighting his way forward. By the time he got past all the breakers, the water was up to his chest.
“We’ll paddle out to catch a big wave!” said Boka.
Jack frowned. “But—”
“Don’t worry, Jack,” said Kama. “It will be fun!”
Boka and Kama pulled themselves onto their boards. They lay on their bellies and began paddling with their hands out to sea.
Jack and Annie lay down on their boards, too. Paddling over the gentle waves, Jack relaxed. Now, this was something he could do all day.
“When I say go, paddle fast back toward the shore!” said Kama.
“When do we stand up?” said Annie.
“When you start toward the shore!” said Boka. “Stand up with one foot forward. Stretch out your arms to keep your balance!”
“But don’t try to stand up the very first time!” said Kama. “Just