Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [119]
HANG ZHOU RESTAURANT
Map Hangzhou, Shanghainese $$
2591 1898; 1st fl, Chinachem Johnston Plaza, 178-188 Johnston Rd; lunch from $100, dinner from 200; 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm; MTR Wan Chai (exit A5)
Hangzhou cuisine is similar to its Shanghainese cousin, but generally lighter in taste. This modern establishment has clearly mastered the art of both. There’s not a trace of grease on the deep-fried frog’s legs ($98), and hardcore health nuts will be converted by the braised pork belly with steamed buns ($78). For a challenge, order the steamed stinky beancurd.
LIU YUAN PAVILION
Map Shanghainese $$
2804 2000; 3rd fl Broadway, 54-62 Lockhart Rd; meal from $150; noon-3pm, 6-11pm; MTR Wan Chai (exit C)
This pretty restaurant in yellows and light browns serves superb Shanghainese dishes, including crab stir-fried with egg yolk and sweet rice pudding with eight treasures. The cook can be a little heavy-handed with the salt.
LOCK CHA TEA SHOP
Map Tea, Vegetarian $$
2801 7177; www.lockcha.com; Ground fl, KS Lo Gallery, Hong Kong Park; dim sum from $12, tea from $20; 10am-10pm; MTR Admiralty (exit C1)
Set in the lush environs of Hong Kong Park, Lock Cha offers a dozen teas and many more varieties of vegetarian dim sum in a graceful setting. Chinese music performances and tea talks on Sunday (4pm to 6pm, $80 per person).
NINO’S COZINHA
Map Portuguese, Macanese $$
2866 1868; 31 Ship St; dinner $200-600; noon-3pm, 6-10.15pm; MTR Wan Chai (exit B2)
This gem hidden in a quiet corner off Queen’s Rd East cooks up the best Portuguese fare in town. Classics such as the oxtail stew ($158) and baked duck rice ($110) evolved from heirloom recipes of the Portuguese-Chinese owners. Hearty fare cooked from the heart. Book early.
Pawn Map English $$
2866 3444; www.thepawn.com.hk; 62 Johnston Rd; set lunch from $150; 2nd fl noon-2.30pm, 6-11pm Mon-Sun, 1st fl 11am-midnight Mon-Sat, 11am-11pm Sun; MTR Wan Chai (exit A3)
In its previous incarnation, this handsome three-storey establishment was a row of tenement houses and the century-old Woo Cheong pawn shop. In the presence of history, not to mention the tasteful contemporary interiors designed by a local film director, diners tend to be lenient with the food, but we actually found the English fare quite decent, by any standard.
PURE VEGGIE HOUSE
Map Vegetarian, Chinese $
2525 0556; 3rd fl, Coda Plaza, 51 Garden Rd; 11am-10pm; 12A from Admiralty MTR station
A cross between an ancient scholar’s study and a rustic inn, this upscale Buddhist eatery serves excellent, MSG-free vegetarian food. It offers a 10-course meal for two ($400) and an all-you-can-eat dinner hotpot ($98).
VEGGIE PALACE
Map Vegetarian, Cantonese $$
2838 6505; Shop B, 1st fl, Ming Fung Bldg, 140 Wan Chai Rd; lunch $168, dinner $198; noon-3pm, 6-10pm; MTR Wan Chai (exit A3)
The 10-course meals that Buddhist owner and chef Mrs Fung whips up here are as fabulously funky as her well-coiffed, bespectacled self. With creations like sea coconut and papaya soup, mixed mushroom tart, seaweed and pomelo salad with peanut sauce, who needs meat? It’s packed at the weekends, so book a few days in advance. Extra helpings free.
VICTORIA CITY Map Cantonese $$
2827 9938; 2nd fl, Sun Hung Kai Centre, 30 Harbour Rd; lunch from $150, dinner per person from $250; 11am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-10.30pm Sun; MTR Wan Chai (exit A)
This banquet hall–style restaurant is a great option for sampling ‘yellow oil’ crabs or wong yau hai (female crabs with creamy yellowish fat permeating their body as a result of the sun’s heat causing the fat in their livers to break down). From June to August, fans of the delicacy flock here for their fix (from $328 per crab). The restaurant’s roasted beef brisket