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Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [119]

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award-winning ‘waterless’ soup and in condiments such as the galangal dip with extra-virgin olive oil that lends wings to her famed roast chicken. Margaret also gives her own take on local classics such as baked pork chop over rice and mock shark’s fin soup. Yin Yang is housed in a three-storey 1930s heritage building. Reservations essential.

HANG ZHOU RESTAURANT

Map Hangzhou, Shanghainese $$

2591 1898; 1st fl, Chinachem Johnston Plaza, 178-188 Johnston Rd; lunch from $100, dinner from 200; 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm; MTR Wan Chai (exit A5)

Hangzhou cuisine is similar to its Shanghainese cousin, but generally lighter in taste. This modern establishment has clearly mastered the art of both. There’s not a trace of grease on the deep-fried frog’s legs ($98), and hardcore health nuts will be converted by the braised pork belly with steamed buns ($78). For a challenge, order the steamed stinky beancurd.

LIU YUAN PAVILION

Map Shanghainese $$

2804 2000; 3rd fl Broadway, 54-62 Lockhart Rd; meal from $150; noon-3pm, 6-11pm; MTR Wan Chai (exit C)

This pretty restaurant in yellows and light browns serves superb Shanghainese dishes, including crab stir-fried with egg yolk and sweet rice pudding with eight treasures. The cook can be a little heavy-handed with the salt.

LOCK CHA TEA SHOP

Map Tea, Vegetarian $$

2801 7177; www.lockcha.com; Ground fl, KS Lo Gallery, Hong Kong Park; dim sum from $12, tea from $20; 10am-10pm; MTR Admiralty (exit C1)

Set in the lush environs of Hong Kong Park, Lock Cha offers a dozen teas and many more varieties of vegetarian dim sum in a graceful setting. Chinese music performances and tea talks on Sunday (4pm to 6pm, $80 per person).

NINO’S COZINHA

Map Portuguese, Macanese $$

2866 1868; 31 Ship St; dinner $200-600; noon-3pm, 6-10.15pm; MTR Wan Chai (exit B2)

This gem hidden in a quiet corner off Queen’s Rd East cooks up the best Portuguese fare in town. Classics such as the oxtail stew ($158) and baked duck rice ($110) evolved from heirloom recipes of the Portuguese-Chinese owners. Hearty fare cooked from the heart. Book early.

Pawn Map English $$

2866 3444; www.thepawn.com.hk; 62 Johnston Rd; set lunch from $150; 2nd fl noon-2.30pm, 6-11pm Mon-Sun, 1st fl 11am-midnight Mon-Sat, 11am-11pm Sun; MTR Wan Chai (exit A3)

In its previous incarnation, this handsome three-storey establishment was a row of tenement houses and the century-old Woo Cheong pawn shop. In the presence of history, not to mention the tasteful contemporary interiors designed by a local film director, diners tend to be lenient with the food, but we actually found the English fare quite decent, by any standard.

PURE VEGGIE HOUSE

Map Vegetarian, Chinese $

2525 0556; 3rd fl, Coda Plaza, 51 Garden Rd; 11am-10pm; 12A from Admiralty MTR station

A cross between an ancient scholar’s study and a rustic inn, this upscale Buddhist eatery serves excellent, MSG-free vegetarian food. It offers a 10-course meal for two ($400) and an all-you-can-eat dinner hotpot ($98).

VEGGIE PALACE

Map Vegetarian, Cantonese $$

2838 6505; Shop B, 1st fl, Ming Fung Bldg, 140 Wan Chai Rd; lunch $168, dinner $198; noon-3pm, 6-10pm; MTR Wan Chai (exit A3)

The 10-course meals that Buddhist owner and chef Mrs Fung whips up here are as fabulously funky as her well-coiffed, bespectacled self. With creations like sea coconut and papaya soup, mixed mushroom tart, seaweed and pomelo salad with peanut sauce, who needs meat? It’s packed at the weekends, so book a few days in advance. Extra helpings free.

VICTORIA CITY Map Cantonese $$

2827 9938; 2nd fl, Sun Hung Kai Centre, 30 Harbour Rd; lunch from $150, dinner per person from $250; 11am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-10.30pm Sun; MTR Wan Chai (exit A)

This banquet hall–style restaurant is a great option for sampling ‘yellow oil’ crabs or wong yau hai (female crabs with creamy yellowish fat permeating their body as a result of the sun’s heat causing the fat in their livers to break down). From June to August, fans of the delicacy flock here for their fix (from $328 per crab). The restaurant’s roasted beef brisket

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