Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [123]
LIFE CAFE Map Vegetarian, International $
2810 9777; www.lifecafe.com.hk; 10 Shelley St; 9am-10pm
Life is a vegetarian’s dream, serving organic vegan food and dishes free of gluten, wheat, onion and garlic. Delicious take-away salads from the deli counter cost $50 to $75, and the large one can feed a small family.
BON APPETIT Map Vietnamese, Thai $
2525 3553; 14B Wing Wah Lane; 10am-midnight Mon-Sat; MTR Central (exit D2)
Cheap but tasty dishes for those who prefer to blow their cash on drinks are available at this Vietnamese and Thai nook in Wing Wah Lane, the northern extension of Lan Kwai Fong. Filled baguettes, and rice and noodles are generally around $50.
SER WONG FUN Map Cantonese $
2543 1032; 30 Cochrane St; 11am-10.30pm; MTR Central (exit D1)
This snake speciality shop always looks a little festive – it has red tablecloths and it’s packed. In the cooler months, diners flock here for the snake soup ($65), which is eaten with lemon leaves and fritters. Non-snake eaters come for the duck’s liver sausage and chicken claypot rice ($32), and a plethora of simple and tasty dishes.
TAI CHEONG BAKERY Map Bakery $
2544 3475; 32 Lyndhurst Tce, Central; 7.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-9pm Sun; 40M
Tai Cheong was famous for its lighter-than-air profiteroles (sa yung; $5 each) until former governor Chris Patten was photographed wolfing down its egg-custard tarts ($5 each). Since then ‘Fat Patten’ egg tarts have hogged the limelight.
LAN FONG YUEN Map Tea Cafe $
2544 3895, 2854 0731; 2 Gage St; 7am-6pm Mon-Sat; 5B
Don’t be fooled by the rickety facade. It hides an entire cha chaan tang. Lan Fong Yuen (1952) is largely believed to be the inventor of ‘pantyhose’ milk tea Click here. Over a thousand cups of the silky brew ($13) are sold per day. Watch staff work their magic while you wait for a table. A cover charge ($20 per head) applies. The new branch ( 2850 8683; 4A-6 Gage St; 8am-8pm), practically next door, is open on Sundays.
MAK’S NOODLE
Map Noodles, Cantonese $
2854 3810; 77 Wellington St; noodles $28-40; 11am-8pm; 40M
At this legendary shop, noodles are made the traditional way with a bamboo pole and served perched on a spoon placed over the bowl so they won’t go soggy. The beef brisket noodles are equally remarkable. Branches: Causeway Bay ( Map; 2895 5310; 44 Jardines Bazaar; 11am-midnight; MTR Causeway Bay, exit F), Tsim Sha Tsui ( Map; 2730 0710; Shop C03, 2nd fl, Gourmet Express, China Hong Kong City, 33 Canton Rd; 7am-10pm; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui, exit A1).
WANG FU Map Northern Chinese $
2121 8006; Shop A, Jade Centre, 98-102 Wellington St; 11am-10.30pm Mon-Sat; 40M
At this clean little stall, you’ll see visitors from Beijing demolishing plate after plate of dumplings. There are nine delicious varieties ($30), including lamb and cumin, and the popular egg and tomato (available after 6pm). The branch ( 2121 8089; 65 Wellington St; closed Sat) across the street also serves northern Chinese dishes.
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SHEUNG WAN, THE MID-LEVELS & WESTERN DISTRICTS
West of Central, Sheung Wan and Western Districts are known for their local Chinese, in particular, Chiu Chow cuisine. Restaurants in the Mid-Levels cater mostly to local residents who don’t feel like making the trek down to Soho or Central.
GAIA RISTORANTE Map Italian $$$
2167 8200; www.gaiaristorante.com; Ground fl, Grand Millennium Plaza, 181 Queen’s Rd Central; lunch from $300, dinner from $400; noon-2.45pm, 6.30-11pm; MTR Sheung Wan (exit E2)
Gaia was considered the best Italian restaurant in Hong Kong not so long ago. Now the attention has shifted to Da Domenico Click here. Such is the fickle nature of Hong Kong foodies. Yet the standard at Gaia remains high (as do the prices), and blueberries are used in unexpected ways.
RED TAVERN Map European $$$
2559 0737; www.red-tavern.net; 17 Aberdeen St; lunch from $100, dinner from $380; 11.30am-3pm, 6.15-11.45pm Mon-Sat
The former chef of Pierrot at