Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [177]
Cultural diversity does not make for cleaner rooms or safer lockers, of course. There’s always a queue for the coffin-sized lifts. Visitors have been harassed, swindled or worse. And only the most naive would think there are no illegal goings-on inside the building. So while some are charmed by CKM’s chaotic ethics (and aesthetics), others avoid it like the plague.
But in all fairness, CKM has cleaned up much of its act since it changed management in the late ‘90s, to the extent that travellers who’ve known it since its days as a hippie haven are lamenting the loss of its charisma. Over 200 CCTVs are now installed throughout the building, and there are security guards and cleaners to make sure things are in order.
Though standards vary significantly, most of the guesthouses at CKM – including the ones recommended below – are clean and quite comfortable. It’s worth bearing in mind, however, that rooms are usually the size of cupboards and you have to shower right next to the toilet. The rooms typically come with air-con and TV and, sometimes, a phone. Many guesthouses can get you a Chinese visa quickly, most have internet access and some have wi-fi and laundry service.
Bargaining for a bed or room is always possible, though you won’t get very far in the high season. You can often negotiate a cheaper price if you stay more than, say, a week, but never try that on the first night – stay one night and find out how you like it before handing over more rent. Once you pay, there are usually no refunds.
Dragon Inn ( 2368 2007; dragoinn@netvigator.com; Flat B5, 3rd fl, B Block; s $200-300, d $200-500, tr $390) It’s owned by the chairperson of the Incorporated Owners of CKM – a shrewd but helpful matron with the political correctness of a Ming emperor and a taste for florals. It has clean rooms with private bathrooms, drinking water and a hairdryer; there are discounts for students, seniors and repeat customers. (And, yes, the email address really is spelt dragoinn.)
Chungking House ( 2366 5362; chungkinghouse@yahoo.com.hk; 4th & 5th fl, A Block; s $200, d $250-350) Covering two floors with a total of 80 rooms, it’s among the swishest in CKM – though standards have slipped a little of late. All rooms have private bathrooms.
Holiday Guesthouse ( 2316 7152, 9121 8072; fax 2316 7181; Flat E1, 6th fl, E Block; s/d $200/300; ) An upmarket Nepali-run place with 23 pleasant rooms.
Four Seasons Guesthouse ( 3523 1783, 9177 3177; Flat A1-A2, 14th fl, A Block; s & d $170-300; ) Run by the spritely Mrs Tsui, it has clean rooms with private bathrooms and wallpaper worthy of the other Four Seasons.
Tom’s Guest House ( 2722 6035, 9194 5923; fax 2366 6706; Flat B7, 16th fl, B Block; s $150-160, d $150-250) This is a friendly and popular place, which can also be entered from C Block (Flat C1, 16th floor). There’s another branch located in A Block ( 2722 4956; Flat A5, 8th fl).
Yan Yan Guest House ( 2366 8930, 9489 3891; fax 2721 0840; Flat E1, 8th fl, E Block; s $130, d $180-250; ) This is one of the last of the Chinese-owned guesthouses in the overwhelmingly subcontinental E Block. Wi-fi reception is better in the front rooms. New Yan Yan Guesthouse ( 2723 5671; Flat E5, 12th fl, E Block; ), in the same block, is managed by the same people.
Beverly Guesthouse ( 2721 1758, 2722 1758, 9148 9787; fax 2368 3397; Flat B7, 8th fl, B Block; s/d $130/200) Has basic rooms with private bathrooms and is run by a laid-back owner. There’s wi-fi in the lobby.
Garden Guest House ( 2368 0981, 9057 5265; Flat C5, 16th fl, C Block; s/d $120/180; ) This clean, quiet place is much favoured by backpackers. There’s another branch ( 2366 0169;