Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [190]
Dongmen Market (Dōngmén Shìchǎng; Lǎojiē metro) This chaotic market is popular for tailored suits and skirts, electronic goods and cheap ready-to-wear clothes, at competitive prices. Most shops open from 10am to 10pm. Be extremely careful of pickpockets.
Huaqiang Bei Commercial St (Huáqiángběi Shāngyèjiē; Huáqiánglù metro, exit A) For electronics, Huaqiang Bei is a living, breathing eBay, with shops and malls for blocks on end selling the latest tech gadgets, hi-tech audiovisual equipment and computer components at rock-bottom prices.
Luohu Commercial City (Luóhú Shāngyè Chéng; 0755-8233 8178; Renmin Nanlu; 6.30am-midnight) The Hong Kong day-trippers’ favourite. Over 700 shops sell heaps of goods. The 5th floor houses a cluster of fabric and tailor shops. Stephanie (www.shenzhen-tailor.com; Shop 5060A) has a reputation for its workmanship and quality clothing. Most shops are open from 10.30am to 10pm.
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IS THE SEZ STILL SPECIAL?
It’s hard to imagine that a decade ago there was an electrified fence bordering the northern part of the Special Economic Zone (SEZ) to prevent mass illegal migrations south to Shenzhen. Deng Xiaoping bestowed numerous favourable measures on the city, which during the ‘80s was at the forefront of capitalism in communist China. Today, cities like Shanghai and Chongqing are granted similar favours, sending waves of apprehension through Shenzhen, which is keen to safeguard its ‘special’ status.
Shenzhen is increasingly eager to merge with Hong Kong, both economically and physically, to retain its favoured status. A few years ago the megacity plan to integrate the two cities was still wishful thinking. But now, Shenzhen is actively (and unilaterally) preparing itself for the creation of a borderless megacity. The visa procedures for residents of Shenzhen to come into Hong Kong have been simplified, and a new direct express train linking the two cities is under construction.
While there is tremendous concern that this one-sided movement is a potential breach of the Sino-British Joint Declaration – which guarantees the autonomy of Hong Kong – some, especially those north of the border, are excited to see the arranged marriage between the SEZ and the SAR, arguing that ‘one country, two systems’ is a straitjacket for the economy of both cities.
As the migrant population outstrips the locals in Shenzhen, social problems arise. The minimum wage in Shenzhen is Y8.80 per hour, aggravating the imbalance of wealth. Human trafficking and labour disputes that result in violent suppression aren’t uncommon, and the local police are severely understaffed, overworked and insufficiently trained.
The only way for this anomalous society to retain its status, according to a police officer and a TV producer we met, is integration with Hong Kong. ‘We are ready to erase the border. Hong Kong police are welcome to combat crimes for us.’ As we walked along an unruly street in Shenzhen, we sensed that Shenzhen is struggling to keep its special status. It looks north to the mainland and south to Hong Kong, and strives to remain the bridge between the two.
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EATING
Shenzhen’s cultural diversity means it’s not difficult to find a wide variety of both Chinese and international cuisines. The food courts in shopping malls like the MixC and Coco Park (Gòuwù Gōngyuān metro) have some decent options for budget travellers.
Belle Epoque ( 0755-8266 8880; Shop 299, 2nd fl, The MixC, Bao’an Nanlu; tea set Y68, lunch & dinner from Y258; noon-11pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-11pm Sat & Sun; Dàjùyuàn metro, exit C3) This French restaurant, arguably the best in town, hits the mark with an interior that is both plush and comfortable, decor-wise.
Grand Prince (Wángzǐ Guóyàn; 0755-8269