Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [205]
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BICYCLE
Cycling in urbanised Kowloon or Hong Kong Island would be suicide, but in the quiet areas of the islands (including southern Hong Kong Island) and the New Territories, a bike can be a lovely way to get around. It’s more recreational than a form of transport, though – the hilly terrain will slow you down (unless you’re mountain biking). Be advised that bicycle-rental shops and kiosks tend to run out of bikes early on weekends if the weather is good (see Click here).
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BOAT
Despite Hong Kong’s comprehensive road and rail public-transport system, the territory still relies very much on ferries to get across the harbour and to reach the Outlying Islands.
Hong Kong’s cross-harbour ferries are faster and cheaper than buses and the MTR. They’re also great fun and afford stunning views. Since the opening of the Lantau Link, ferries are not the only way to reach Lantau, but for the other Outlying Islands they remain the only game in town.
Smoking is prohibited on all ferries inside or out; the fine is a hefty $5000. With the exception of Star Ferry services from Central to Hung Hom and Wan Chai to Hung Hom, the cross-harbour ferries ban the transport of bicycles. You can, however, take bicycles on the ordinary ferries to the Outlying Islands.
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Star Ferry
You can’t say you’ve ‘done’ Hong Kong until you’ve taken a ride on a Star Ferry ( 2367 7065; www.starferry.com.hk), that wonderful fleet of electric-diesel vessels with names like Morning Star, Celestial Star and Twinkling Star. Try to take your first trip on a clear night from Kowloon to Central. It’s not half as dramatic in the opposite direction.
The Star Ferry operates on four routes, but the most popular one is the run between Tsim Sha Tsui and Central (pier 7). The coin-operated turnstiles do not give change, but you can get it from the ticket window (unnecessary, of course, if you’re carrying an Octopus card, Click here).
Star Ferry routes:
Central (Star Ferry pier 7)–Tsim Sha Tsui Adult lower/upper deck $1.80/2.30, child $1.30/1.40, seniors free; nine minutes; every six to 12 minutes from 6.30am to 11.30pm.
Central (Star Ferry pier 8)–Hung Hom Adult/child/senior $6/3/free; 15 minutes; every 15 to 22 minutes from 7.18am to 8pm Monday to Friday, every 20 to 22 minutes from 7am to 7pm Saturday and Sunday.
Wan Chai–Hung Hom Adult/child/senior $6/3/free; 10 minutes; every 15 to 22 minutes from 7.08am to 8.10pm Monday to Friday, every 20 to 22 minutes from 7.08am to 7.10pm Saturday and Sunday.
Wan Chai–Tsim Sha Tsui Adult/child/senior $2.30/1.40/free; eight minutes; every eight to 20 minutes from 7.30am to 11pm Monday to Saturday, every 12 to 20 minutes from 7.40am to 11pm Sunday.
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Other Cross-Harbour Ferries
Two other ferry companies operate cross-harbour ferries: New World First Ferry ( 2131 8181; www.nwff.com.hk) has ferries from North Point to Hung Hom and Kowloon City; and the Fortune Ferry Co ( 2994 8155; www.fortuneferry.com.hk) has a service linking North Point and Kwun Tong.
North Point–Hung Hom Adult $4.50, child and senior $2.30; eight minutes; every 30 minutes from 7.23am to 7.23pm.
North Point–Kowloon City Adult $4.50, child and senior $2.30; 14 minutes; every 30 minutes from 7.17am to 7.17pm.
North Point–Kwun Tong Adult $5, child and senior $2.50; 12 to 15 minutes; every 30 minutes from 7am to 7.30pm.
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FERRY ANGRY
The Star Ferry is an institution dear to the hearts of its passengers. Mess with it and you risk getting Hong Kong’s ordinarily phlegmatic folk worked up into a fury.
Take 1966, for example, when Communist China was in the grip of the Cultural