Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [264]
Though it boasts alfresco dining and sumptuous views, it’s the superb Cantonese cuisine that makes Kwun Hoi Heen stand out among the hotel restaurants on Coloane Island.
LA GONDOLA Map Italian $$
2888 0156; Cheoc Van beach; mains MOP$80-240; 11am-11pm
For a weekend getaway, head to this beachside eatery next to the swimming pool at Cheoc Van beach. It offers excellent pizza cooked in a wood-fired oven.
FERNANDO Map Portuguese $$
2888 2264; 9 Hác Sá beach; starters MOP$58-78, mains MOP$88-198; noon-9.30pm
Fernando is probably the most famous restaurant in Coloane. It has a devoted clientele and is famed for its seafood. The easy-breezy atmosphere makes it perfect for a protracted lunch by the sea. The bar stays open till midnight.
NGA TIM CAFé Map Cantonese, Macanese $
2888 2086; 1 Rua do Caetano; mains from MOP$68; 11am-1am
Although the food here is so-so, the great view and a laidback and unique setting make this cafe a winner. Enjoy the scene of the Chapel of St Francis Xavier just in front of it. The amusing Macanese owner Mr Wong loves playing guitar to his guests in the evenings.
LORD STOW’S CAFÉ Map Cafe $
2888 2174; 9 Largo do Matadouro; sandwiches & quiches MOP$36-54, desserts MOP$10-26; 10.30am-7pm
Though the celebrated English baker Andrew Stow passed away, his cafe and Lord Stow’s Bakery ( 2888 2534; 1 Rua da Tassara; 7am-10pm Thu-Tue, 7am-7pm Wed) keeps his memory well alive by serving his renowned pastéis de nata, a warm egg-custard tart (MOP$6) and cheesecake (MOP$14) in un-usual flavours, including black sesame and green tea. The Lord Stow’s Garden Café ( 2888 1851; 105 Rua da Cordoaria; 10.30am-7pm) near the Coloane bus stop has a very relaxed atmosphere on its patio.
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ENTERTAINMENT
Macau has ambitions to reshape itself as an artistic destination in Asia, but it certainly has some way to go. The Macau Cultural Centre ( Click here ) is the territory’s premier venue for cultural performances such as opera and classical music. To book tickets, ring 2855 5555 (in Hong Kong 2380 5083) or check www.ccm.gov.mo. The mammoth Venetian Macao Resort Hotel ( Click here ) has a 15,000-seat indoor arena, which is a great place for live music performances and has drawn the likes of Celine Dion and Avril Lavigne. Check www.cotaiticketing.com for event listings.
CCM+, a bimonthly, and Destination Macau, a monthly magazine, have useful entertainment listings. They’re free and available at MGTO outlets and larger hotels.
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CASINOS
As of mid-2009, Macau had 31 casinos. Most of them are located in big hotels on the ‘casino strip’ along Avenida da Amizade and Cotai Strip in Taipa. All provide frequent free shuttle service ( 9.30am-midnight) to and from both the ferry terminal and Portas do Cerco. All casinos are open 24 hours.
The legal gambling age in Macau is 18 years (21 for Macau residents). Photography is absolutely prohibited inside the casinos. Men cannot wear shorts nor a singlet (undershirt) unless they have a shirt over it. Women wearing shorts or sleeveless tops are refused entry, as is anyone wearing thongs (flip-flops).
Even if you don’t fancy playing the tables, it’s worth taking a look around, enjoying the free shows and just watching the way these temples of Mammon operate.
EMPEROR PALACE CASINO Map
2888 9988; 299 Avenida Comerical De Macau, Grand Emperor Hotel, Macau Peninsula
With a faux-antique interior complete with portraits of British royalty, and a pair of rather unconvincing Queen’s Irish Guards standing sentry outside, this place is a scream. The princely concourse, with marble columns and pure gold bricks on the floor, is where you’ll find the art of feng shui to make fortunes, if not to show off.
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SOME FUN & GAMES IN MACAU
Baccarat
Also known as chemin de fer (railroad), baccarat has become the card game of choice for the upper crust of Macau’s gambling elite. Baccarat rooms are always the classiest part of any