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LAN KWAI FONG & SOHO

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SHEUNG WAN

Shopping Click here; Eating Click here; Drinking Click here; Sleeping Click here, Click here

Pockets of Sheung Wan ( Map) still retain something of a feel of old Shanghai about them, although that is fast disappearing under the jackhammer, and many of the old ‘ladder streets’ (steep inclined streets with steps) that were once lined with stalls and street vendors have been cleared away to make room for more buildings or the MTR. Nevertheless this neighbourhood just west of Central is a great place to investigate on foot for its traditional shops and businesses.

Hollywood Rd, which got its name from all the holly bushes that once thrived here, is an interesting street to explore. The eastern end is lined with upmarket antique and carpet shops and trendy eateries. However, once you head west of Aberdeen St the scene changes: you’ll soon be passing traditional wreath and coffin makers, as well as several funeral shops.

The limits of Sheung Wan are difficult to define, but basically the district stretches from the Sheung Wan MTR station in the east to King George V Memorial Park and Eastern St in the west. The harbour – or, rather, Connaught Rd West – is the northern border, while Hollywood Rd is the southern limit.

MAN MO TEMPLE Map

2540 0350; 124-126 Hollywood Rd; admission free; 8am-6pm; 26

You won’t need a map to find the Man Mo Temple: just follow the smell of incense curling from giant cones suspended from the ceiling of this busy 18th-century temple. One of the oldest and most famous in Hong Kong, Man Mo (literally ‘civil’ and ‘martial’) is dedicated to two deities. The civil deity is a Chinese statesman of the 3rd century BC called Man Cheung, who is worshipped as the god of literature and is represented holding a writing brush. The military deity is Kwan Yu (or Kwan Tai), a Han-dynasty soldier born in the 2nd century AD and now venerated as the red-cheeked god of war; he is holding a sword. Kwan Yu’s popularity in Hong Kong probably has more to do with his additional status as the patron god of restaurants, pawnshops, the police force and secret societies such as the Triads (see the boxed text).

Outside the main entrance are four gilt plaques on poles that are carried at procession time. Two plaques describe the gods being worshipped inside, while others request silence and respect within the temple grounds and warn menstruating women to keep out of the main hall. Inside the temple are two 19th-century sedan chairs shaped like houses, which are used to carry the two gods at festival time. The coils suspended from the roof are incense cones burned as offerings by worshippers. Off to the side are fortune-tellers ready and willing to tell you of your (undoubtedly excellent) fate.

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TRANSPORT – SHEUNG WAN

Bus Buses 5 and 5A from Central call at 10 Des Voeux Rd, and bus 26 runs along Hollywood Rd between Sheung Wan and Central, Admiralty and Wan Chai.

Macau Ferry The terminal is at Shun Tak Centre.

MTR Sheung Wan station is on the Island line.

Tram These run along Des Voeux Rd Central and Des Voeux Rd West.

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QUEEN’S ROAD WEST INCENSE SHOPS Map

26

Head along Queen’s Rd West, several hundred metres past the end of Hollywood Rd, and you’ll find two or three shops selling incense and paper offerings. These are burned to propitiate the spirits of the dead. There’s quite a choice of spirit-world comestibles to make a consumer heaven for the deceased, including complete mini-sets of kitchenware, fast-food meals, cars, gold and silver ingots, the popular hell banknotes, and even computers and personal stereos. They are tempting to buy as souvenirs, but if you’re superstitiously minded, remember that hanging onto these offerings rather than burning them is seen as bad luck here.

SHEUNG WAN

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A CHINESE CURE-ALL

So you’re feeling a bit peaky. Below par. Liverish even. Why not see if a Chinese herbalist