Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [57]
KOWLOON
FORMER MARINE POLICE HEADQUARTERS Map
Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; admission free; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui
Just being completed at the time of writing, this handsome declared monument with a boutique hotel and luxury goods shops is the end result of an extensive and lengthy redevelopment of this prime site overlooking the harbour.
While heritage lovers may baulk at the pretty nakedly commercial use of this 1884 historic building, at least visitors can once again get a close-up look at this site, which had been closed for years. The ship’s mast was used to hoist typhoon signals while the tower next to it used to hoist and drop a globe on a pole to mark the time for ships in the harbour.
PENINSULA HONG KONG Map
2920 2888; www.peninsula.com; cnr Salisbury & Nathan Rds; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui
More than a Hong Kong landmark, the Peninsula, in the throne-like building opposite the Hong Kong Space Museum, is one of the world’s great hotels (Click here). Though it was being called ‘the finest hotel east of Suez’ just a few years after opening in 1928, the Peninsula was in fact one of several prestigious hostelries across Asia where everybody who was anybody stayed, lining up with (but not behind) the likes of the Raffles in Singapore, the Peace (then the Cathay) in Shanghai and the Strand in Rangoon (now Yangon).
Taking afternoon tea ($250; 2-7pm) at the Peninsula is one of the best experiences in town – dress neatly and be prepared to queue for a table.
KOWLOON PARK Map
2724 3344; www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/parks/kp/en/index.php; 22 Austin Rd; 5am-midnight; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui & Jordan
Built on the site of a barracks for Indian soldiers in the colonial army, Kowloon Park is an oasis of greenery and a refreshing escape from the hustle and bustle of Tsim Sha Tsui. Pathways and walls criss-cross the grass, birds hop around in cages, and towers and ancient banyan trees dot the landscape.
There’s an aviary ( 6.30am-6.45pm Mar-Oct, 6.30am-5.45pm Nov-Feb) as well as a Chinese Garden and Sculpture Walk, featuring works by local artists. Kung Fu Corner, a display of traditional Chinese martial arts, takes place here from 2.30pm to 4.30pm on Sunday.
The renovated Kowloon Park Swimming Complex ( 2724 3577; adult/concession $19/9; 6.30am-10pm, 1hr close at noon & 5pm) comes complete with four pools and waterfalls. Visit on a weekday; on weekends there are so many bathers it’s difficult to find the water.
HONG KONG SPACE MUSEUM & THEATRE Map
2721 0226; www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/Space/e_dex.htm; 10 Salisbury Rd; adult/concession $10/5, admission free Wed; 1-9pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat, Sun & public holidays; Star Ferry
Just east of the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, this golf-ball-shaped building consists of the Hall of Space Science, the Hall of Astronomy and the large Space Theatre, one of the largest planetariums in the world. Exhibits include a lump of moon rock, rocket-ship models and NASA’s 1962 Mercury space capsule.
Closed at the time of research, the re-opened and refurbished museum may still not beat the nearby Science Museum ( Click here) for hands-on interest, but if it’s raining a standby option is the attached Space Theatre, which screens ‘sky shows’ and Omnimax films on a massive screen. Lasting about 40 minutes, they are mostly in Cantonese, but translations by headphones are available.
The first show is at 1.30pm weekdays (12.20pm on Saturday and at 11.10am on Sunday) and the last at 8.30pm. Tickets are $32/16 for adults/concession ($24/12 in the front stalls); children under three are not allowed entry. Advance bookings can be made by phone up to an hour before show time.
KOWLOON MOSQUE &ISLAMIC CENTRE Map
2724 0095; 105 Nathan Rd; 5am-10pm; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui
North of the intersection of Nathan and Haiphong Rds, the Kowloon Mosque & Islamic Centre is the largest Islamic house of worship in Hong Kong. The present building, with its dome and carved