Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [82]
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LAMMA’S ENDANGERED TURTLES
Sham Wan has traditionally been the one beach in the whole of Hong Kong where endangered green turtles (Chelonia mydas), one of three species of sea turtle found in Hong Kong waters, still struggle onto the sand to lay their eggs from early June to the end of August.
Female green turtles, which can grow to a metre in length and weigh 140kg, take between 20 and 30 years to reach sexual maturity and always head back to the same beach where they were born to lay their eggs, which takes place every two to six years. Fearing that Sham Wan would catch the eye of housing-estate developers and that the turtles would swim away forever, the area was declared a Site of Special Scientific Interest and closed. It is patrolled by the Agriculture, Fisheries & Conservation Department (AFCD) from June to October. Some eight turtles are known to have nested here since 1997 and some are now being tracked by satellite.
As well as developers, a major hurdle faced by the long-suffering turtles is the appetite of Lamma locals for their eggs. In 1994 three turtles laid about 200 eggs, which were promptly harvested and consumed by villagers. Several years later villagers sold eggs to Japanese tourists for $100 each. There is now a $50,000 fine levied on anyone caught on the beach during the nesting season. Anyone taking, possessing or attempting to sell one of the eggs faces a fine of $100,000 and one year in prison.
Gwài-dáan, or ‘turtle egg’, by the way, is one of the rudest things you can call a Cantonese-speaking person.
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LO SO SHING BEACH Map
Yung Shue Wan ferry
If you continue south from Hung Shing Yeh beach, the path climbs steeply until it reaches a Chinese-style pavilion located near the top of the hill. From this vantage point, it becomes obvious that the island is mostly hilly grassland and large boulders, though more and more trees are being planted.
You will pass a second pavilion that offers splendid views out to the sea; from here a path leads from the Family Trail down to Lo So Shing beach, the most beautiful on Lamma. The beach is not very big, but it has a nice cover of shade trees at the back that provide a break from the sun.
MO TAT WAN Map
The clean and relatively uncrowded beach at Mo Tat Wan is a mere 20-minute walk east of Sok Kwu Wan along a coastal path. Mo Tat Wan is OK for swimming, but has no lifeguards. You can also reach here by kaido from Aberdeen, which continues on to Sok Kwu Wan.
SHAM WAN Map
Sham Wan (Deep Bay) is another beautiful bay to the southwest that can be reached from Tung O Wan by clambering over the hills. A trail on the left about 200m up the hill from Tung O leads south to a small and sandy beach. Don’t come here from June to October, when Hong Kong’s endangered green turtles nest (see boxed text).
LAMMA
TUNG O WAN Map
While walking to Sok Kwu Wan from Yung Shue Wan or from Sok Kwu Wan itself, a detour to this small and secluded bay, with a long stretch of sandy beach, is highly recommended. Just before the Tin Hau temple at the entrance to Sok Kwu Wan, follow the signposted path to the right southward, up and over the hill to the tiny village of Tung O. The walk takes about 30 minutes over a rugged landscape, and the first half is a fairly strenuous climb up steps and along a path. Don’t do this walk at night unless it’s a full moon, as there are only a few street lights at the start in Sok Kwu Wan.
If coming from Mo Tat Wan, take the trail immediately to the west of the pavilion above the beach and follow the signposted path up the hill and through bamboo groves and fields. It takes about 25 minutes to reach the sleepy village of Yung Shue Ha on the fringes of the bay. All of the Chinese who live there are from the same clan and have the surname of Chow. A member of this clan,