How to Roast a Lamb_ New Greek Classic Cooking - Michael Psilakis [100]
Cook the whelks and the periwinkles in the same way. (The periwinkles are done when they begin to emerge from their shells.)
Peel and slice the geoduck. Reserve all the braised shellfish in their liquid. At serving time, lift them from the liquid with a slotted spoon; the braising liquid will be gritty, and so may not be reused.
TO ASSEMBLE
In a very large, heavy sauté pan with a lid, warm the merguez sausage over low heat until most of the fat has rendered out and the sausage begins to brown. Add the saffron and paprika, toast slightly, then add the shallots, garlic, and scallion. Sauté gently until softened. Add the Saffron Broth and bring up the liquid to a simmer.
Add the shellfish in the following order, according to the cooking time required: Manila clams, bouchot mussels, cockles, Taylor Bay scallops, razor clams, Braised Whelks, Braised Periwinkles, Braised Geoduck, Hawaiian blue prawns.
Simmer all until the shellfish are open and tender, then use a slotted spoon to transfer them to individual, warmed serving bowls, dividing evenly. Fold the Saffron Orzo into the pan juices and warm through. Fold in the picked fresh herbs. Finish by swirling in the cold butter and lemon juice. Spoon the orzo and all the juices over the shellfish.
BRAISED LAMB PASTITSIO
SERVES 4
The largest hurdle I have encountered in my efforts to showcase the evolution of Greek food has undoubtedly been the relatively limited knowledge of Greek cuisine in general. Imagine the difficulty in trying to encourage the proliferation of a cuisine that is relatively unknown—the roots of the tradition must be fully understood first before its proposed evolution can be taught. As challenging as it may sound, this has always been my goal. Somehow, through the grace of luck and hard work, we have succeeded beyond even my wildest dreams.
It has always struck me as curious that the food of neighboring Italy has not only broken through the “ethnic” barrier, it has also become ingrained in what now defines American cuisine. My hope is that Greek food follows in these footsteps, and that this book will open your eyes to the reasons why it should. Greek cuisine is simple, based on recognizable and easily sourced ingredients that pay particular attention to the seasonality and topography of the country’s broad, engaging regions. It is also a cuisine of multiple underlying and medically proven health benefits, such as those attributed to “the Mediterranean diet,” not to mention the bold, enticing flavors that define Greek cooking to the core. I ask you to go beyond the obvious language barrier that I believe has slowed its pace in American culture. The proof lies within these pages. I challenge you to cook them and say otherwise.
That being said, the inclusion of this particular dish was very calculated. I venture to say that if you have encountered one Greek dish, pastitsio is probably it. My hope is that upon completing this refined version of a cornerstone of Greek cooking, you will close your eyes, take a bite, and allow yourself to be transported to a new realm of Greek cuisine.
FOR THE LAMB PASTITSIO
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup minced white onion
½ cup minced carrot
½ cup minced celery
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 pounds ground lamb (well marbled, from the shoulder)
1 cup whole milk
1 cup rich lamb, beef, or roasted chicken stock, plus more if necessary
4 ounces large sprigs oregano, sage, and rosemary, tied with twine
FOR THE FETA MACARONIA
1 pound feta cheese
2 cups milk
2 cups durum flour
FOR THE BÉCHAMEL SAUCE
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 Spanish or sweet onion, thinly sliced
1 leek, white part only, minced
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
4 scallions, white part only, minced
1 Idaho potato, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice
2 cups milk
½ cup water
1 teaspoon ground cloves
2 cinnamon sticks
3 large eggs, slightly beaten
Pinch of freshly