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By Root 319 0

butter, sage, and capers to another small pan over medium heat. Swirl the pan for a minute or two and, the instant the butter foam begins to go a little brown at the edges, remove from the heat. Immediately spoon the foamy brown butter over the top of the plated dish.

CLARIFYING BUTTER IN THE MICROWAVE

Cut the butter into chunks and put in a microwave-safe container. Heat (uncovered) for 30 seconds at a time, to avoid excessive foaming, just until separated. Skim off and discard the foam from the top. Pour off the clear yellow clarified butter, leaving behind the white solids at the bottom. Any leftover clarified butter can be reserved for future use.

GRILLED SARDINES WITH CHOPPED SALAD & SKORDALIA SOUP

SARDELES STIN SCHARA, SALATA PSILOKOMENI, SOUPA SKORDALIA

SERVES 4 AS A PLATED APPETIZER

In Greece, sardines are fried, sautéed, or grilled, and served with a wide array of accompaniments. The yogurt here is my own take.

FOR THE SKORDALIA

1 Idaho potato, peeled and quartered

3 cloves garlic, sliced

3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

FOR THE GRILLED SARDINES & SALAD

8 to 12 fresh sardines, scaled and gutted, heads off

1 tablespoon strained or Greek yogurt

1½ tablespoons distilled white vinegar

¼ recipe Greek Salad (page 213, see Note), roughly chopped

2 to 3 tablespoons Red Wine–Black Pepper Vinaigrette (page 273) or 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil and 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Kosher salt and coarsely cracked black pepper

Pinch dry Greek oregano

For the Skordalia, cook the potato in boiling salted water until very tender.

Meanwhile, in a small food processor, purée the garlic and vinegar until very smooth.

Put the potato through a ricer into a bowl and stir in the garlic-vinegar mixture. Stir in the olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and a generous grinding of pepper. The Skordalia should be the consistency of applesauce. Whisk the Skordalia with the yogurt and vinegar to a thick paste.

For the grilled sardines, open out each sardine’s central cavity, as you would a book. Using your thumb, push out any of the innards that may remain. Then work your thumb in between the rib cage and the flesh, starting at the tail end and working your way down toward the head to release the rib cage and the spine. Repeat on the other side and remove the skeleton. With tweezers, pull out any pinbones that extend beyond the outside edges on either side. Leave the back fin in place. Dry the sardines well with paper towels and hold in the refrigerator on a rack, uncovered, until ready to grill.

Assemble and dress the little chopped Greek Salad (if using olive oil and lemon juice instead of the vinaigrette, be sure to season well). Place a nice big smear of the Skordalia-yogurt mixture on each of 4 plates.

Preheat a charcoal or gas grill, or ridged cast-iron grill pan, until very, very hot. Season the sardines on both sides with salt and pepper. Grill with the skin side down for 30 to 40 seconds, then turn over for 1 second only, and transfer to warm plates on top of the Skordalia. Top each sardine with a sprinkle of Greek oregano and a little of the chopped salad.

Try topping with a pinch of paximadi (toasted rustic bread crumbs) for texture.

Rather than make up the entire recipe for Greek Salad, thinly shave a little iceberg lettuce and fennel and toss with whatever you have in the refrigerator: pitted, halved olives; crumbled feta; capers and/or caperberries; diced roasted pepper. The greens are not as important as the sardines here, but you do want something crispy-briny as a garnish.

GRILLED CUTTLEFISH STUFFED WITH SPINACH

SOUPIA YEMISTI ME SPANAKI STIN SCHARA

SERVES 4 TO 6 AS A PLATED APPETIZER

The roasted tomatoes here make a fantastic garnish for almost any protein. I like them served either hot or at room temperature. They’re also a great meze, or stand-up starter, with a sprinkle of feta and a sprig of dill or chive.

FOR THE ROASTED TOMATOES

2 tablespoons finely chopped leaves thyme