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In a large, heavy pot no more than half filled with oil or in a deep fryer, heat the canola oil to 375°F. Dry the fillets well with paper towels. Season both sides of the fillets with salt and pepper. Smear the flesh side with a film of both Garlic Purée and mustard. Make a sandwich with the sage leaves in the middle and the mullet, skin sides out. Push onto long bamboo skewers, back and forth, as you would for a satay. Dredge in flour, shaking off the excess. Fry in the hot oil until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes.

Spoon some of the lentil mixture onto warm plates and top with one fish satay, pulling out the skewers. Drizzle with a little Ladolemono, a few grains of sea salt, and a sprinkle of fresh herbs.

OUZO & ORANGE–BRAISED SNAILS

SALIGARIA SIGOVRASMENA SE OUZO KAI PORTOKALI

SERVES 4 TO 6 AS AN APPETIZER, OR MORE FAMILY-STYLE, AS PART OF A LARGER SPREAD

This is a butter braise, my own elegant take on snails, which are a popular and traditional Greek dish from the islands (especially Crete). More often, snails are braised in a tomatoey broth. Just like mussels in white wine, there are lots of delicious buttery juices here, which should be mopped up with hunks of crusty bread. For an entrée, add some orzo or flat pasta, like hilopites or pappardelle.

1 tablespoon mild extra-virgin olive oil

½ Spanish or sweet onion, finely chopped

½ bulb fennel, finely chopped

1 stalk celery, finely chopped

¼ cup ouzo

1 cup white wine

1 (28-ounce) can Helix snails, thoroughly rinsed and drained

1 cinnamon stick

1 quart water

Zest and juice from 1 orange

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, plus more for serving

8 ounces unsalted butter

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

Large handful torn fresh herbs, such as dill, mint, parsley, and/or chives

Hunks of crusty bread

In a large skillet, warm the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the vegetables and wilt for 3 to 5 minutes without browning. Deglaze the pan with the ouzo and white wine and immediately add the snails, cinnamon, water, zest and juice of the orange, lemon juice, and butter. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat slightly. Simmer briskly, uncovered, until the snails are tender and the juices are creamy, about 35 to 40 minutes.

Throw in the fresh herbs and remove from the heat. Taste for seasoning and add more lemon juice if needed. Serve in large, warm bowls with hunks of bread.

GRILLED SWORDFISH WITH TOMATO-BRAISED CAULIFLOWER

KSIFIAS STIN SCHARA, KOUNOUPIDI KOKKINISTO

SERVES 4

Here is an excellent example of pronounced cinnamon flavor in a savory dish. The cauliflower here is a terrific side dish on its own.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium head cauliflower, broken into florets

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

Large pinch ground cinnamon

½ large Spanish or sweet onion, thinly sliced

1 fresh bay leaf or 2 dried leaves

2 cinnamon sticks

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1½ cups water

2 whole sprigs thyme

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

4 swordfish steaks, about 5 ounces each

Sea salt

In a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat, warm the oil until it is very hot. Add the cauliflower florets. Season with kosher salt and pepper, and dust with the cinnamon. Shake the pan for 2 to 3 minutes, until nicely golden. Add the onion, bay leaves, and cinnamon sticks. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Deglaze the pan with the vinegar. Add the water, thyme sprigs, and mustard. Partially cover the pan and braise over low heat until the cauliflower is tender. Remove from the heat and discard the bay leaves and cinnamon sticks. (Make ahead and rewarm before serving, if you like.)

Preheat a charcoal or gas grill, or ridged cast-iron grill pan or cast-iron skillet, until very hot. Season both sides of the swordfish steaks with kosher salt and pepper. Grill for 1½ to 2 minutes on each side. Rest the steaks for a couple of minutes and serve with the braised cauliflower. Finish with a