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By Root 304 0

the remaining olive oil over medium-high heat. When it is very hot, add the cauliflower and dust with cinnamon. Sauté the mixture for a minute or two, shaking the pan, until nicely caramelized. Add half the shallot and cook for a few seconds. Add the spinach and let it wilt slightly. Remove from the heat so the spinach keeps its color and body. Divide this mixture among 4 plates.

Wipe the pan with a paper towel, return to high heat, and add the butter, sage, and capers. Season with salt and pepper. Swirl the pan for a minute or two, and the instant the butter foam begins to go a little brown at the edges add the cherries and remaining shallot. Swirl for 10 seconds more and remove from the heat. Transfer the scallops to warm plates on top of the cauliflower and immediately spoon the foamy top of the brown butter right over the scallops. Scatter the cherries over the top and serve.

ROASTED JOHN DORY WITH CRAB-YOGURT-ORZO SALAD & BUTTERNUT SOUP

PSITO HRISTOPSARO, KAVOUROSALATA ME YAOURTI KAI KRITHARAKI, SOUPA APO KOLOKYTHA

SERVES 4 AS A PLATED ENTRÉE

This is my little pun on the Greek diner standard, whole fish stuffed with crab. Except that diners don’t use yogurt. Or squash. In my version, you get bright acidity from the sheep’s milk yogurt, sweetness from the squash, and a crisp-brininess from the fish. You may freeze the leftover butternut soup and serve it alone, or add cinnamon-dusted cauliflower, a dollop of yogurt, and a generous drizzle of sage brown butter for a startlingly good upgrade.

FOR THE BUTTERNUT SOUP

1 small butternut squash, halved lengthwise, seeded but unpeeled

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

6 sprigs thyme

1 onion, finely chopped

1 cup white wine

1½ quarts water

1 cup heavy cream

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Pinch ground cloves

Pinch ground nutmeg

1 tablespoon honey, preferably thyme

FOR THE ORZO SALAD

¾ cup orzo

2 tablespoons strained or Greek yogurt

1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar

1 tablespoon water

1 teaspoon chopped dill

4 leaves fresh mint, slivered

2 scallions, green part only, thinly sliced

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

1 pound peekytoe or other lump crabmeat, picked over

FOR THE JOHN DORY

1½ pounds John Dory fillets (or flounder)

Sea salt and cracked black pepper

All-purpose flour

1 tablespoon blended oil (90 percent canola, 10 percent extra-virgin olive)

For the butternut soup, preheat the oven to 375°F. Paint the cut side of the two squash halves with 1 tablespoon olive oil, season with salt and pepper, stuff the cavities with thyme, and wrap each in aluminum foil. Roast for 45 to 60 minutes, until very tender. Cool, discard the thyme sprigs, and scoop out the flesh. In a heavy pot, warm the remaining tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and wilt for 4 to 6 minutes, until very tender. Deglaze the pot with the white wine and let it evaporate completely. Stir in the squash pulp and add the water, cream, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and honey. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and cook for 2 minutes, then remove from the heat. With an immersion blender—or in a blender, in batches—purée until smooth. If you prefer a really smooth soup, press through a fine sieve. It should be a juicy (not too thick) soup consistency.

For the orzo salad, cook the orzo in boiling salted water for 9 minutes, or according to the package instructions. While it is cooking, in a large bowl, stir together the yogurt, vinegar, water, dill, mint, and scallions. Drain the orzo, rinse well, and shake dry. Transfer to the yogurt mixture and season with salt and pepper; mix well. Fold in the crab.

For the John Dory, cut each of the John Dory fillets into 3 smaller pieces, according to the natural contours of the fish. Season with salt and pepper and dust one side only generously with flour (the flour helps prevent the fish from sticking to the pan). Shake off the excess flour.

In a large skillet, warm the blended oil over medium-high heat. Add the fillets, flour-side down. Sauté just until the edges