How to Roast a Lamb_ New Greek Classic Cooking - Michael Psilakis [33]
TAMING THE BRINE
I love salty food, and Greek cooking is full of briny influences. But some people are put off by strong salty-briny flavors. If you’re one of them, simmer brined or salt-cured olives, capers, and/or pepperoncini in boiling water for 5 minutes, then drain and proceed with the recipe. This way, you still get the fruity flavors and body from the ingredients rather than the brine/salt.
SOUVLAKI: CHICKEN & PORK SHISH KEBAB
KOTOPOULO SOUVLAKI KAI HIRINO SOUVLAKI
SERVES 4
I can’t emphasize enough the importance of brining lean meats and poultry. With meat that does not have a lot of fat to function as internal basting, we brine to make it tender and juicy. The molecular structure of protein is such that tendons and proteins are coiled. In a brine, the proteins start to uncoil, and we have a chance to get flavor and moisture in there, allowing us to cook the meat and still keep it juicy, juicy, juicy. With meats that are fatty on the outside and well marbled inside, and that will braise for a very long time, there is no need to brine because the natural juices will come out as the fat breaks down. Yes, you have to plan ahead (at least overnight), but the payoff is truly fantastic. I’d prefer if you give the Souvlaki 12 hours in the brine and then 12 hours in the marinade, but if you have to choose one, brining is the more important step. Note that if you need more brine to cover the meat, increase the quantity while keeping the ratios the same, 1 quart water to ¼ cup of salt.
1 pound pork tenderloin or 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast (about 4 single breasts)
FOR THE BRINE
1 quart cold water
¼ cup kosher salt
¼ cup granulated sugar
1 cup distilled white vinegar
FOR THE MARINADE
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, smashed and chopped
3 to 4 sprigs thyme
1 fresh bay leaf or 2 dried leaves
2 sprigs rosemary
2 shallots, sliced
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
¼ recipe Greek Salad (page 213) with the vinaigrette on the side
Sea salt and cracked black pepper
½ cup Ladolemono (page 270)
4 rounds pita bread
Extra-virgin olive oil
cup Tsatziki (page 189), for serving
Carefully trim off the thin white membrane (silverskin) that runs down one side of the tenderloin.
In a plastic or ceramic bowl or crock, stir the brine ingredients together until the salt and sugar have dissolved (this will take a few minutes). Cut the pork tenderloin crosswise into generous 1-inch-thick slices (or, cut the chicken into very large chunks). Immerse in the brine and refrigerate overnight.
Remove the meat from the brine and rinse under cool running water. Pat dry with a towel. In a deep baking dish or roasting pan, combine the olive oil, garlic, thyme, bay leaves, rosemary, shallots, and a little salt and pepper. Thread the pieces of meat onto 4 wooden skewers and immerse the skewers in the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing the plastic right down onto the meat to exclude any air. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours; overnight is even better, though not essential.
Remove the skewers from the refrigerator and let stand at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes while you preheat a charcoal or gas grill, or ridged cast-iron grill pan, until hot.
In a bowl, combine all ingredients for Greek Salad and reserve. (Do not dress!)
Season the Souvlaki lightly with salt and pepper and grill until firm and char-marked on all sides. Pork will take about 8 minutes total, chicken about 6 minutes. Transfer to a resting platter and dress with Ladolemono.
Paint the pita with extra-virgin olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and grill until firm and char-marked on all sides. Smear some Tsatziki in the center of each pita round. Push the meat off the skewer on top of the Tsatziki. Top with some Greek