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In a very large, deep skillet, warm the blended oil over medium-high heat. Add the sausage, thoroughly brown, and reserve. To the same pan, add the onions and all the peppers; cook for 3 to 5 minutes. When the peppers are tender, throw in the chopped garlic and the pepperoncini and cook for 1 minute, then stir in the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute more.

Deglaze the pan with the white wine and let it evaporate completely. Add the reserved sausage, tomatoes, water, mint, cloves, oregano, 1 tablespoon of kosher salt, and a generous grinding of pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat, partially cover, and simmer until it thickens, about 25 minutes. Fold in Garlic Purée.

Transfer to a platter with all the pan juices. Drizzle with a little olive oil. Scatter with the feta and fresh herbs.

If you don’t like pepperoncini, leave them out, but be sure to add some acidity, such as a touch of red wine vinegar, because you need some brightness to play off all the fat that’s coming out of the sausages, and to keep the palate coming back for more.

POTATO, EGG, TOMATO & PEPPERS

TIGANITES PATATES ME AVGA, TOMATES KAI PIPERIES

SERVES 4 TO 6

Every Greek mother has a go-to dish like this in her repertoire. When my mom was running around taking us four kids to soccer practices and ballet, this was a hearty meal she could throw together at the drop of a hat. Most Mediterranean cultures have an egg and potato dish. It is also one of the first things I ever cooked.

3 Idaho potatoes, peeled, cut into French-fry-sized batons

Canola, peanut, or sunflower oil, for deep-frying

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 Spanish or sweet onion, finely chopped

1 red pepper, cored, seeded, and thickly sliced

1 green pepper, cored, seeded, and thickly sliced

1 yellow pepper, cored, seeded, and thickly sliced

2 large leaves sage, slivered

2 cloves garlic, smashed and chopped

2 plum or cherry tomatoes, cut into rough wedges

2 teaspoons white wine vinegar

12 large eggs, beaten well with a tablespoon of milk

Small handful torn fresh herbs, such as dill, parsley, mint, and/or chives

cup crumbled feta cheese

Crusty bread, for serving

Deep-fry the potatoes (see page 154). Drain on absorbent paper towels, and season with kosher salt and pepper.

In a large skillet, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, all the peppers, and the sage and garlic. Cook until soft, about 3 to 6 minutes. Add the tomatoes and white wine vinegar, and continue to cook until the liquid evaporates. Add the fried potatoes, then pour in the beaten eggs. Let this cook undisturbed for 1 minute, then begin gently scrambling the mixture until it reaches your desired consistency. Just before serving, scatter with the fresh herbs and feta.

If you like spicy flavors, add 2 to 3 chopped pepperoncini while you are sautéing the pepper mixture.

TOMATO & STRING BEAN SALAD

TOMATOSALATA ME FASOLAKIA

SERVES 4, OR MORE AS PART OF A LARGER SPREAD

This is my version of a Greek steak house salad—it’s fantastic with a steak or any kind of protein. Add toasted bread and it’s a Greek version of the Italian dish panzanella. I recommend going a step further by adding a grilled onion: the char flavor works perfectly with the ripe fruit and vegetables.

¼ pound green beans, ends trimmed

¼ pound yellow wax beans, ends trimmed

to ½ cup Red Wine and Feta Vinaigrette (page 271)

2 tablespoons crumbled feta cheese

4 vine-ripe tomatoes, preferably heirloom, cut into rough wedges

1 teaspoon dry Greek oregano

½ small red onion, thinly sliced and separated into rings

6 small, picked sprigs parsley, torn

6 small, picked sprigs dill, torn

16 leaves fresh mint, torn

Kosher salt and coarsely cracked black pepper

Prepare an ice water bath and bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the beans until tender but still snappy, about 3 minutes, then shock them in the ice water bath and swish around. Drain well and dry on a clean towel.

In a bowl, combine the