• Choose a category
• All
• Classic-Fiction

Wash the lambs’ tongues in cold water, pat dry with paper towels, and season liberally with kosher salt and pepper. In a large, heavy pot or Dutch oven, warm the oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the tongues and brown very well all over. Transfer the tongues to a plate and pour off most of the cooking oil. Add the garlic, onion, carrot, and celery and wilt for 3 to 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and stir for 1 minute. Deglaze the pan with the red wine and allow it to reduce away completely.

Return the tongues to the pot and add the thyme, rosemary, bay leaves, water, 1 tablespoon kosher salt, and a generous grinding of pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, partially cover, and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Drain the beans and add them to the pot. Continue simmering for 30 minutes more, then add the mushrooms.

Continue simmering for about 30 minutes more or until the beans and tongues are tender, for a total of about 1½ hours. Remove from the heat.

Transfer the tongues to a cutting board. With a small, sharp knife, trim any fat and gristle from the base. Optional: Place smooth-side up and slit the thin outer skin from the tip to the base. Use the knife to loosen the skin at the slit. Then, with your fingers, work the skin free and peel it off. Return the peeled tongues to the braising liquid to warm through. Drizzle with a little olive oil and scatter with the fresh herbs.

GRILLED LAMB CHOPS

PAIDAKIA STIN SCHARA

MAKES 12 TO 18 CHOPS

I like to serve these chops as an appetizer, straight off the grill, while everyone is hanging out and chatting. And make sure you keep them coming! Or, serve as an entrée, with Greek Salad (page 213) or Spinach Rice (page 167) on the side.

Souvlaki marinade (page 74)

12 to 18 lamb rib chops, French-trimmed, patted dry with paper towels

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

Roasted Lemon Purée (recipe follows, optional)

2 lemons

Extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon dry Greek oregano

Marinate the chops in the Souvlaki Marinade, refrigerated, for 24 hours.

Preheat a charcoal or gas grill, or ridged cast-iron grill pan, until hot. Lift the chops from the marinade, letting all of it drain away. Season liberally with kosher salt and pepper. Grill the chops until firm and char-marked, about 1½ minutes on each side, depending on their thickness and how you like the meat done. Rest the meat for a minute or two. Paint the chops with Roasted Lemon Purée (optional) and arrange on serving platter. Squeeze fresh lemons over the top, drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil, and finish with a sprinkle of oregano.

ROASTED LEMON PURÉE

This creamy, bright yellow sauce is all lemon and no eggs. Roasting the lemons caramelizes their natural juices and imparts both sweet and sour flavors. The purée works well with any number of dishes, but particularly with lamb chops. On the plate, it mixes with the lamb’s natural juices to create a “plate sauce” that blends all of the flavors. The purée will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

4 scrubbed lemons, preferably Meyer or Sorrento (always scrub supermarket lemons, to remove the wax)

About cup kosher salt

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice or orange juice

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Garlic Purée (page 264, optional) or 2 crushed and pressed garlic cloves

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Pinch superfine sugar, or as needed

Cracked black pepper

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Place each lemon on a large square of aluminum foil. Roll the lemon in the foil lengthwise, then fold under the sides to meet in the center. Make 4 mounds of salt on a baking sheet, and place a wrapped lemon on top of each mound with the folded sides downward (this keeps the lemon flesh from burning).

Roast until the lemon packages feel very soft and squishy, about 1½ to 2 hours. Unwrap and let cool slightly, then quarter the lemons lengthwise. Scoop all the roasted flesh into a sieve and work it through to remove the seeds, saving the juices. Lay the strips of peel on a surface,