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Try a soft goat cheese, or any soft and stinky cheese you like.

Substitute very soft, plump dried apricots for the figs.

FRIED CALAMARI & WHITEBAIT WITH CRISPY CHICKPEAS & LEMON

TIGANITO KALAMARI KAI MARIDA, ME TRAGANISTA REVYTHIA KAI LEMONI

SERVES 6 TO 8 AS A MEZE

This is the Greek take on fritto misto, and you can add all kinds of things—vegetables, meat, poultry—here as long as they are cut in pieces small enough to cook at about the same time. I prefer you use really, really fresh calamari (squid) here. However, if you use frozen calamari, make sure you take the calamari out of the frozen juices as soon as it is thawed and use it the same day.

Everyone is familiar with fried calamari, that Italian staple most often served with a heavy tomato sauce. In the Greek kitchen, we prefer to complement fried fish with a tart, acidic sauce to keep the palate alive and kicking.

1 pound calamari (squid) cleaned, heads separated from the bodies

12 small oil-packed Greek sardines or white anchovies, fresh whitebait, or fresh smelt

About 2 cups milk

Canola, safflower, or blended oil, for deep-frying

All-purpose flour

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

1 cup drained Chickpea Confit (page 266) or canned chickpeas, well rinsed and drained

2 shallots, cut into ¼-inch rings

1 lemon, sliced paper-thin

cup small, picked sprigs parsley

cup small, picked sprigs dill

10 leaves fresh basil or mint

Tsatziki (page 189), for serving (or just serve with lemon wedges)

Cut the bodies of the calamari into ½-inch rings; leave the heads whole. Soak the calamari and the small fish of your choice in just enough milk to cover for 20 minutes.

In a large, heavy pot no more than half filled with oil, or a deep fryer, heat the oil to 350°F. Meanwhile, spread about 2 cups of flour in a large, shallow bowl. Drain the calamari and the fish and season them liberally with kosher salt and pepper. Season the Chickpea Confit, shallots, and lemon slices as well.

Throw the calamari, little fish, Chickpea Confit, shallots, and lemon slices into the bowl of flour, and toss well with your hands until evenly coated. Transfer everything to a colander or sieve and shake to get rid of the excess flour. Fry in the hot oil until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Just before everything is done, throw the fresh herbs into the fryer for about 10 seconds. Lift all ingredients out of the oil and drain briefly on absorbent paper. Season with salt and pepper. Immediately turn out onto a large, warm platter. Serve with Tsatziki for dipping and wedges of lemon.

Add a couple of sliced pepperoncini to the frying list.

SWEETBREADS WITH CAPERBERRIES, ARTICHOKES & WHITE WINE

GLYKADAKIA ME KAPARI, AGINARES KAI LEFKO KRASI

SERVES 4 TO 8 AS A MEZE OR STAND-UP FOOD

Make sure everything is ready and near the stove before you begin sautéing the sweetbreads, so you can prepare and serve this dish quickly. If you don’t have any Garlic Purée on hand, finish up with 2 or 3 tablespoons of cold, unsalted butter.

12 ounces calf sweetbreads

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

All-purpose flour

2 tablespoons blended oil (90 percent canola, 10 percent extra-virgin olive)

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

12 sage leaves, torn

2 large shallots, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

¼ cup white wine

¼ cup water

6 tablespoons Garlic Purée (page 264)

12 caperberries, halved

4 cups loosely packed baby spinach leaves

Extra-virgin olive oil

Sea salt

Plunge the sweetbreads into rapidly boiling salted water. Cook for 4 minutes, then remove and cool. Using your fingers, pull off the white membranes—the sweetbreads will fall apart into large, lumpy nuggets. (You can do this the night before: place on a paper towel on a plate, then cover with a damp towel and refrigerate. The next day, return to room temperature for 10 minutes before proceeding.)

Season the sweetbreads with kosher salt and pepper. Warm a very large skillet over medium-high heat and add the blended oil. While the oil is heating, dredge the