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The dishes in this chapter are designed to be part of a big buffet, so I don’t give the portion sizes in the usual way. If you serve mussels as an appetizer, followed by a main course, you need ten or twelve per person, but when they are part of a huge spread that includes a table of meze, a lamb roasting on the spit, spetsofai, a huge dish of spanakopita, and artichoke fricassee, three or four mussels per person might be more realistic. Slice the lamb right off the spit so it’s still hot and juicy, and two or three hours into the party, when people have been eating for a while, bring out the casserole-style dishes and salads—Potatoes, Olives & Capers with Anchovy Vinaigrette, and Greek Salad—and let everyone continue to graze. Look at the big picture when you gauge how much food to make. But always remember one thing: be sure there is too much food, rather than too little. Not enough food at a Greek party? Embarrassing. At my family parties, even after everyone is full, there should be more food to feed them all over again!

WHOLE SPIT-ROASTED LAMB

OLOKLIRO ARNI STIN SOUVLA

THE EQUIPMENT

Motorized roasting spit

20 feet of 14-gauge aluminum wire

2 pairs of pliers that can cut wire

2 U-Bolt clamps

6 (25-pound) bags of charcoal

30 pounds wood chips (preferably hickory), soaked in water overnight

New paintbrush

FOR THE LAMB

1 lamb, skinned, gutted, hung for two days in a cool, dry place

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

2 quarts fresh lemon juice

1 quart extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup dry Greek oregano

Decapitate the lamb, if necessary (reserve the head for oven roasting or braising). Working on a large, flat surface and starting from the back of the lamb, take the spit and push it through until the lamb is secured by the rear fork on the spit. The fork should go into the upper quarter of the two hind legs. Then, take the second fork and slide that into the front shoulder and secure. Use a hammer if necessary. Now, turn the lamb on its back and, using the wire, fasten the neck of the lamb to the spit by wrapping it around both. Make sure to fasten it firmly, using the pliers to twist the wire.

Take the front legs and pull them above where the lamb’s head would be, as if the “elbows” were next to the “ears.” Fasten the front legs to the spit using wire in a similar fashion to securing the neck. Extend the hind legs and tie them to the spit in the same fashion as the front legs. Turn the lamb onto its side. Unbolt the two U-Bolt clamps. Take the first clamp and pierce it through the back of the lamb under the rib cage. Go through the backbone into the cavity of the animal. Place the bar that holds the clamp together and bolt the two bolts as tightly as possible to the clamps against the spit. Move 6 inches to the rear and fasten the other clamp to the spit.

Now, light the fire using the charcoal and adding the wood chips for flavor. Wet the lamb down with water inside and out. Generously season with kosher salt and pepper; do not be shy. In a mixing bowl, combine the lemon juice, olive oil, oregano, salt and pepper to taste, and whisk. Transfer to a bucket. This will be your basting liquid. Spread the charcoal and wood chips to the sides, front, and rear of where the lamb will hang so there is no direct heat. (Indirect heat is key.) The heat should be approximately 300 to 325°F. If you can hold your hand next to the lamb as it spins for 10 seconds, it is the right temperature. If you cannot last 10 seconds, it’s too hot. Put the lamb on the rack and fasten to the motor. Put the motor on the slowest setting. For the next 6 to 7 hours, baste frequently, using the paintbrush, and maintain the temperature. The lamb is ready when you can take a rib and pull it off with your hands without any resistance. Any animal roasted on a spit is best eaten right off the spit. I personally don’t recommend transferring this to a table. Go right at it with a fork!

ARTICHOKE FRICASSEE

AGINARES FRIKASE

SERVES